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Very nice Scott... I'm still trying to get the shop together since I moved. Maybe this winter I can get back into it....

I took things as a question on how to do it, rather than the necessity, that's all.. 😀

Temp, water, oil.. all depends on the alloy.. Typically you would use 8620 steel for the cam and crank and rough machine it leaving .002"-.005" for finish grinding after heat treatment.. Sometimes you'll need to straighten the part after heat treatment before finish grinding... 4140 might...

Phew we!! I had concerns when I bought this thing that there was an issue with the headstock as there was no positive engagement... Well my fears are at rest now... Belts!!!! Oiley worn out belts!!! Yippie!!! Well, there is 2 bearings that do need to be replaced, but nothing major

Well, the good news is I got that .00005" increment adjustment working.. Bad news is I'm finding alot of other things wrong. There is a spur gear with a missing tooth under the table that has something to do with the hydraulic feed system. I haven't cut a spur gear in years, but I'll manage...

Yes.

This is what I've figure out so far.. but still many questions..

Head stock question also... there's this outer aluminum ring kinda like a backing plate for driving a dog that just spins. Feels like it has a bad bearing in it or something but does not seem to lock to anything... I have no ideas on it yet and will approach it later once I get a few other...

I picked up this old karstens id/od grinder and am in the process of cleaning it up and getting it running again.. Been sitting for quite some time by the looks of it. I would love to find a copy of the operator's manual, or someone answer a few questions on how this thing is supposed to...

Following...

For lost wax I use the Ultravest, and for lost pla I use the plasticast. Both are made by Ransome and randolph. I think someone also makes an investment specifically for aluminum casting (if your not using vacuum assist) that is more porous. I just cant remember who right now....

I've tried lower temp burn outs. Things did not come out so well and the aluminum was not able to fully burn out the remainder of the pla which showed up in the casting looking like bits of carbon..

Dont reinvent the wheel. moldlay may melt out at 280c but it what temp does it need to reach to completely burn out any plastic that becomes entrapped??

https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/cc5f22_306ba9f48fa940269dbe7e4a7156ef35.pdf

The time it takes to properly burn out the mold is dependent upon the size of the mold. A larger mold will take longer and require more stages of heating than a smaller one. If you go to the ransome and randolph website you can pull up the tech sheet for the plasticast investment and get the...

Lol it was a flat head engine model. .1mm layer height, .4mm nozzle, no supports, and mostly a single wall. It had to be printed very slowly to get it to come out. Also printed a t rex skull that was scaled to maximum size on my rostock. .1mm layers 2 shells 20% infill .4mm nozzle. There's...

Some of my casting are block investment and i use vacuum assist to get the molds to fill. The ceramic shell is just static pressure.

Sorry but I do not, some of my prints are 40 hours long...

Its really quite easy, but at the same time there is so many little things that make all the difference and every casting is inherently different. Might be easier if you showed me what you were going to cast and I could explain how to go about doing it and why I would do it that way. One of...

What information are you looking for specifically??