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I see it too but you have to open the thread to see time and date, I prefer the old system where one could see the time and date on the list of new postings without having to open anything. I could look at time and date and decide if I had already opened it, a crutch for an aged memory.

Anyone else prefer the old way new posts were annotated with time and date??

Good to know. Amazon has them for $5.85- unfortunately us dollars and don't know if Amazon services Canada

I stumbled onto a good source for model engine building info that maybe of general interest. I esp. like the section on making rings and honing a cyl bore. Hope this works https://adriansmodelaeroengines.com/catalog/main.php?cat_id=182

Thanks for the replys. Yes I agree Bob Shores book is excellent. I met him years ago and actually sent him an example of my magnetos for his evaluation. I built his EK magneto and his coil winder. Good guy. David, those coils you mentioned look interesting and I will get one. I worry...

Why not try the wicking locktite-at this point you have nothing to loose??

I have had good luck with Locktite wicking thread locker. Saw a suggestion here and it even sealed up some leaking valve guides. This stuff wicks so well it may end up locking up things you did not want locked up!

I have wound a number of small, 1"x1", ignition coils for my magnetos with spotty success. I wonder if anyone has experience with winding segmented Coils in this application and would be willing to share their knowledge? I realize this may not be of interest to very many members here, so if...

You've probably noticed the sensor can be removed from the plastic sleeve. It is very small "3/16x3/16" and can be put where needed, pay attention to which side faces magnet. Good luck

I've been seeing a lot about glues and finishes that harden when exposed to UV. I wonder if there is any product there that might work for you? Enjoying the ride and looking forward to some metal casting!

I agree with Chazz, I have a belt sander, a rotary stone grinder, and a disc sander. I find the 1 inch wide belt sander is used far more than the other two combined. The ability to quickly change cutting grits is very handy.

TEMU, China, has a bunch of different gear cutters starting at $10 for an 8 piece set. These look to be metric but the price is right! I've bought lathe tools from them and they were good.

I bought a 4 inch rotary table so I could simply put it in the 6 inch Kurt vise. I know the coordinates for the y axis center and only need to find the x axis. Both get set with a rotary tool. Saves a lot of time.

Static models are more common than you might think! You could try a commercial carb and narrow down the reasons why it doesn't run. Also I fitted mine with a one way breather where the drain plug goes. The air and oil travel to a vented reservoir and the oil is fed back into the engine-works...

Mike, Early on I made a Wall 30 which is very similar to your ETW designed engine. It was my first engine. Anyway, I never got it to run properly on three different home made carbs of various designs. I finally fitted an OS model airplane carb and never looked back. I think the only thing...

I ordered one of these based on recommendations from here. Came from Ali-Express but only received a spark plug! Anyone else had a problem or another more reliable source??

I will be interested in your experience with the quad rings. I have tried both styles without seeing any difference. I have talked to some who like them and some that don't.

Many of you will remember Don Grimm who made many posts here about magnetos and model ignitions in general. Unfortunately he passed last month and will be greatly missed. John Vietti

Add some balance weights to the crank.

The two shows I go to have gone to a donation system instead of an entrance fee. Both organizers tell me it is working OK. I try to contribute to insure the viability of the shows.