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Would like to see pics please.

To quote Foghorn Leghorn: "I always keep my feathers numbered for just such an emergency." Numbering camlock pins and chuck jaw slots takes so little effort there's no reason NOT to do it. I was taught to mark the chuck when I had found the best, most accurate arrangement for the jaws. It just...

I didn't see the setscrew at first, took me a half hour to notice it. ??? As for centering the leadscrew I ended up moving the head up until I felt things get tight, tightened the locks, then released and re tightened the bolts holding the head to the brass block on the leadscrew. After 2 or 3...

There is a setscrew on the outer edge of the head where it meets the column.

Agreed about the power feed being a bugger to install. I ended up re-tapping the holes in the bed to 1/4-20 and putting in the longest bolts I had. Then I cut off the heads leaving 1/4-20 studs. The power feed hung by itself on the studs freeing up both hands for putting on the lock washers and...

You just remove the little cover that holds in the stock drawbar (the shiny one with the two wrench flats) and lift the drawbar out. I highly recommend making a top-hat style bushing to keep the new drawbar centered. A simple aluminum bushing turned to fit the spindle ID and drilled to fit the...

Here ya' go. http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/detail.ex?sku=18898

The drawbar is a standard 7/16-20 thread on the bottom end. I replaced mine with a 9" long grade 8 bolt. It has a 5/8" hex head on it. You can find them online for just a few bucks.

They must have built your's on the boat ride over from Shanghai! :big:

Hahahahaha :big: Never thought about it, but it sure does! :bow: Copy away, it's only half my idea anyway. You have to post pics though.

Needing both light and a chip shield on my G0704 I borrowed V 45's light mount idea, and also made a block for mounting my gooseneck chip shield. The light mount is almost identical to V's except I mounted the power jack on the back side. Otherwise I would just end up hamfisting the dang...

Karma point for that one! :bow: I used that location on my mill for mounting a gooseneck chip shield. I managed to shock the yellow liquid out of myself while deactivating the kill switch. Machine was unplugged...must be a capacitor in there somewhere. :-[

I have spent many, many hundreds of dollars with LMS and have never been disappointed with a purchase. Chris is "A Number One" in my book! ;D As for the connector, I built the same one for my home brew x2 power feed and it works perfectly. From the pic of the power feed unit you linked to it...

Those are pretty slick!! Only problem I can see it they cannot be adjusted for tool length.

Not an extension cord, a power cord. The machine ships with no cord (cheap #$%^&'s) so you have to make your own. I had forgotten about the electrical supply just down the road from me. I picked up 15' of 12/3 from them this morning and all is well.

Dammit Jim...I'm a machinist not an electrician!! :big: Okay, so 12 gauge wire will cover (perhaps even a touch of overkill) my application. The next question is this, is the wire used in a 12/3 extension sufficient? This would be a cord used in 110 volt applications, but if I replace the plug...

I need to run 15 feet from the 220 outlet to my new lathe, a Grizzly 12 x 36. The motor is a 220 volt single phase and is rated at 9 amps. What is the optimum wire gauge for this situation?

As far as working tooling, it basically doesn't. You'll get a little plastic toolbox with the usual metric end and Allen wrenches, a couple of useless screwdrivers, 2 T-bolts that aren't for bolting down the vise (look for the 3 bolt head mod online), and a drill chuck and arbor that you have to...

Start simple, re-melt every solder joint on the back of the board. I found no less than a dozen cold solder joints on my x2 controller. One resistor literally fell off due to vibrations. The cooling fan board had a bad joint and I went a year without the fan ever running. If it is cutting out...