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don't forget the method squeezing two halfs of delrin (with the minor diameter of the thread bored out between them) around a short piece of the rod you used and then heating the end of the rod until the delrin squeezes into the shape of the thread in order to make half nuts (or leadscrew nuts...

Is this size better or still too big? Looks ok on my screen but I don't mind going smaller if the average screen here is smaller.

sorry, I didn't realize the forum wasn't resizing the image automatically for everyone. It shows a bar that says "This image has been resized, click this bar to view the full image" for me, and if I click that, I see the full size and can click the bar again to collapse it again. I'll start...

Looks like it's working! Got through making the big end, then I realized two things. 1) I made that drawing not including the bushings, so snapped the lines tangent to the wrong circle. I wanted the bit between the ends to be a little thinner than that, closer to the scribe lines. But it was...

depends on the cut, the stresses in the material, the size of the material, and tolerances of the project ;) But generally, cut the bar to length, face the ends, leave the top bottom and sides alone except for some through holes, and it'll be fine. Anything else could be a crap shoot. I use...

a 90 degree cut to the rolled surface tends to be ok. It's when you remove some of the rolled surface and leave the opposite side that you get into trouble.

the change is immediate in cold rolled steel from what I've experienced. Cast iron can change with time if it's not seasoned well but cold rolled is immediate. You can see it very obviously by hacksawing a slit into a cold rolled ring shape (hole drilled through rod). Sometimes it'll collapse...

Looks great gus! My appologies, my advice was assuming the O/H was aluminium. I misunderstood. Glad you got it done! In that second photo, is the block partially supported by the bolt head to the right of it? Looks like an idea I can borrow to keep the long end of something from slipping in...

if it needs to be flatter than that (flat is relative), imo it's best to either stress relieve it (heat it to about 1000-1200f, soak for a bit, and let it cool in still air) or start with a different type of steel. It'll be a game of chasing the warp one way or the other otherwise. Hot rolled...

A remastered version of a favorite decade and a half old video game was just released, so I took a break for that. Time to regain my momentum on this project! Connecting rod time. I decided I needed a connecting rod before a crankshaft because I can't depend on my reamers to give me a specific...

Don't worry to much about the traming or diameter of the endmill, I re-read your original post and it's not describing scallops or ridges, which would be well repeated across the part. Sounds to me (on remembering my reading comprehension skills heh) like it's very localized. something let go...

I used very strong magnets out of computer hard drives to mount the sensor on mine. It's totally fine and allows adjustment if I find that it's hitting part of my job. Also a plus when you've forgotten something and you collide with the sensor, and instead of breaking it, it just pushes it out...

Neat! Eager to see more!

Easier if I had the part on a surface plate to map out the highs and lows and see exactly what the thing is doing, but a few things come to mind, starting with what I think is the most likely. Yeah, good point about the chips and parallels and vise. I try to clamp straight to the table when I...

you'll find another use for it. Plenty of times that I've wished I'd had some on hand.

Don't forget to keep your rpm much lower than you would with high speed steel. If you provide a flute per tooth, even a straight slot, it may go deeper. It might have been just recutting its own chips because they couldn't get out of the way of the cutting edge. If you have 5-10 degrees relief...

Hi Gus, Great work, keep it up! the counterbore doesn't need to be particularly hard to cut aluminum, two holes should be easy. A high tensile bolt should be perfect. If you can avoid annealing in order to cut it, it you probably wouldn't need to do anything to it. I wouldn't expect it to do...

that's a very pleasant shop you have there!

welcome! depending on the size you're looking to build, don't forget to look at radio controlled model engine parts. You can get things like valve springs and piston rings that way too, if you're looking to shrink it under motorcycle sizes.

The nice thing about the tolerances involved in making liners on the home shop scale is it's actually not a machine process, but rather a check and adjust by hand one. The quality or size of your machine doesn't matter much. If you can stop the bore anywhere between 0.001" to 0.005" undersize...