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oohh nice work!

The taper is locked into the spindle, so if the tool doesn't come out of the taper, the force is transferred to the spindle, and then to the bearings supporting the spindle. I've yet to have a problem though. I have to whack the drawbar on my lathe surprisingly hard to get my MT collets to...

Not nearly as bad with stressproof or 12L14 steel. A cold rolled steel would look like a banana after!

Agreed. A good clonk with a heavy chunk of brass. Not a deadblow hammer, it absorbs the shock too much. Repeated tapping with the bearings in the same place is harder on them than a single slightly harder tap.

the drawbar isn't bent or anything? the flat at the top that bears against the top of the spindle is square to the drawbar shaft? The top of the spindle is smooth and flat? The drawbar threads are smooth and in good shape? The collet or endmill holder or whatever is in the taper has threads that...

if it's an endmill holder, just enough to keep it from coming loose. If it's a collet, just enough to hang on to the part or endmill. I find that a morse taper will stay put properly all by itself if you slap it in there, the draw bar is just to prevent it from loosening up from side forces...

I don't know what you have planned for it, but if it were me, I'd keep track of it separately from the rest of the aluminum. That'll be valuable for IC pistons because it'll have high silicon content that most normal aluminum doesn't have, so it expands less with heat than say, 6061 and 7075.

I really like that design. I might shamelessly steal it. Solves my problem of trying to come up with one that'll do convex as well as concave curves.

as someone that screams, cries, and moans for more spindle to vise height, this is becoming more of a priority for me. Thanks for posting! I'm adding it to the list. Till now I've just been c-clamping some 123 blocks around my part then clamping them down to the table. This looks way more handy.

It helps, certainly. Similar skill to filing. Its still quite possible to end up with a taper by biasing one side or another, especially when working to a shoulder, or because of the springiness of the job, or the wear on the cloth, etc. The tolerance you're working to dictates how much you need...

Its a twist in the bed, I need to bolt it down so I can shim it out. Or at least start there, I confirmed its slightly twisted with a machinists level.

I might have remembered that wrong. I might be thinking about over the distance of a test bar. No adjustments but I do know I need to get it bolted down to a sturdy stand and shim the tailstock end level with the headstock end. I'm sure that's where most of it is coming from. Its rare that I...

It's a good tip and one I try not to forget, even though I use it less now. I find a file to be faster, but sometimes, setting the cross slide over is a better way. I don't have a good method for boring internal holes that accurately, so I tend to ream or bore holes to the thousandth of an inch...

There was mention of wanting to build a parting tool holder that uses broken hacksaw blades, so I thought I'd post my version in a place a little easier to see. I used a dovetail cutter to make slanted grooves to retain the hacksaw blade against the vertical surface, and made a notch to clear...

Gus, Forgive the messy drawing, but I measured up mine. Here's what I made (inch units). Absolutely none of these dimensions are critical, make it to whatever you've got on hand. Designed to fit a tool post that takes 3/8" tool bits, but I made no effort to make the hacksaw blade on-center with...

The heat was likely overkill. With the slight taper on the tip 1/8", and finely polished, I think it would have been no problem to press it in. If it bound up the connecting rod I could have tapped it back the other way a bit to clear it. It was shocking how much of a reduction in required...

I installed the pin just after that photo. It was kind of a feel thing rather than checking bore sizes, but I've worked with that size of fit in aluminium fairly often. I was working around the reamers that I had. The connecting rod bore was .251, the piston pin bore reamer was .249. I polished...

Here's my hacksaw blade holder And a piston! The wrist pin is another shrink fit. I drilled the ends of it for brass pucks just in case the shrink fit temperature is exceeded during running and the wrist pin slips. I've ruined a two stroke liner with a wrist pin I thought was...

Makes sense, thanks! This solves the last problem preventing me from getting started on my head. Back to your original topic, I did some thinking about the problem of inconsistent slip fits with endmills. My experience with endmills seems to match yours. They're far better than twist drills...

how do you indicate off of a slanted hole like the center hole in the wedge block? A DTI sweep would see an oval shape more eliptical than the amount of travel mine has, so I'm guessing just touching off a point, turning the spindle 180 degrees, touching the opposite point, and dividing by two...