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Short video,i hope will start to use it and do some mods to be posted Yes it appears well built and light/easy to use.Surprised at the small motor being 1 1/4 hp will see how much grunt it has

My highly modified belt/disc linisher has the motor gone kaput.I do miss it as I used it a lot Over here in Oz its not easy to find high quality homemade tooling but fortunately we have easy and cheap access to chinese gear with free postage and quick delivery,so today i took delivery of a...

Rather than start a new thread will add to here.I bought a couple more ML7s to restore.What makes the latest one different is it came with a rusty cast iron stand which did not particularly want.However I did some research and found it to be a Myford original stand for the ML4. I stripped it...

For drilling shim steel I fix the large piecc of shimstock to timber with clouts then drill using a woodworking drill with a butterfly end then cut out the od with snips

Make a simple punch and die

In answer to DJP.You may have an arguament for the Myford lathes however they can be quickly removed/replaced However I find them perfect for my Sieg sc4 as the t slots on the compound are rarely if ever used.The T slots on the cross slide are usually filled wth crap but I can still move the...

Hi everybody, I haven't made much recently as I have been restoring Myford lathes I have just finished no 6 and I didn't want to bother anyone with mundane repeat threads However I saw a useful tip and decided to do it on a super 7.However when cleaning down my Sieg sc4 I thought it would be...

Hi Norm,just finished my latest Ml7 in myford blue

Used to use large steel tables 5x4m for building stair stringers and balustrade Angle cleats were tack weld on the top to locate other after the first as a jig This meant that the tack welds and spatter had to be ground/linished off before starting another setout the table top was damped down...

I have just finished restoring my 5 th Myford lathe and bought a roller tool box to mount it on purely for resale purposes.It works well and looks good and suits my purpose for easy moveability I would not like to use much as is so now I am looking to make some quickfit feet to stabilise the unit

You certainly have come on leaps and bounds since your first post.Most of us have been in a factory environment and now classed as home model engineers.You seem to be doing it in reverse Best regards barry

As an apprentice many years ago our bandsaw was fitted with a clamping jig,the joints were scarfed on the grinder and then silver soldered before cleaning up.My job of course and god help me if they jumped.Later we got another band saw with with a resistance welder fitment.Much easier but still...

Carbide tips are intended for use in high speed production and work well at high speeds It does not mean that we model engineers with smaller lathes have to run the lathe at high speed with big cuts.With a light rub with a diamond wheel to achieve a slightly sharper cutting edge carbide tips can...

You don't need an accurate level to check the bed twist.Just do the 2 ring machining and adjust the /remove the bed twist accordingly.You will need riser blocks. When I did my 3 no ml7s and 1 no super 7 recently I only needed to adjust the risers twice for each lathe.When the bed twist is...

all rolled sq stock would be within a couple of thou.1" x 1.o6 is not sq stock

I bought a 5" 4 jaw sc chuck mainly for making turners cubes and now use as the default chuck I still use the 4" 3 jaw for smaller compact turning etc

3 jaw s/c are used for round bar and hex. 4 jaw s/c are for round and square 4 jaw independent are used for irregular shapes,round and square and for offset turning A general standard is to have a 3 jaw s/c and a 4 jaw ind to start and then build up to whatever else you need I started with 3...

scrape them to a register dia

Very nice indeed thanks for sharing

A ingle knock per rev indicates a bad joint or small sharp kink