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Looks like another good 'un. Oddball handle on the topslide. Somebody's homeshop mod?

Re water pipe as a cylinder liner, I would not use it. Water pipe has a welded seam running along its length, visible inside. Makes for difficult machining and inconsistent wear and bearing qualities. Better to use a piece of seamless tubing or machine from solid. Often a liner will not need to...

Thanks for the link. That certainly is an encyclopedia on the subject.

Generally, a carb for multi-cylinders will be bigger than the carb for just one cylinder of the same size. But not twice as big for a twin cylinder etc. While only one cylinder is sucking at a time, the total cubic centimetres of air flow per minute is greater with two cylinders than one. So the...

The Myford one is the one that looks a bit rough!

Easily fixed. Use Mozilla Firefox browser and download the free add-on called Photobucket Hotlink. Viola! You can see all those missing photobucket images again. I believe Google Chrome browser has a a similar add-on available.

Very ingenious, and nicely executed. Will probably confuse the hell out of some future owner though!

You did pretty good getting it back that true. I've seen the leadscrew flipping trick down with pins before but never welded. Good job!

This type of engine has been designed many many times before. Look at what has been designed before and proven to work. Build one or two of those proven designs yourself so you can learn for yourself the practical side of construction. Then start your own design by combining what you consider to...

That's cool. Is it your own design?

Look at the way locomotive valve gear is operated by Walschearts mechanism etc. (Not Stephensons though). Walschearts is operated by a crank mounted to the loco wheel. That said, most mill engines and the like used eccentrics so there is probably no need for you to reinvent the wheel. Simply...

Some pretty nice stuff you have collected there. Looks like a Harley-Davidson crankshaft truing stand in the middle of the bench there, only not so heavy duty!

Well done! Should last you for many years.

I did a similar repair on my old Drummond lathe some years ago. Used the spool-shaped sleeve and soft soldered it in position. I tinned the half nut body and the half-spool piece with a thin layer of soft solder then put them together and heated until I could melt a bit more solder into the join...

I reckon it would be easier to teach yourself to silver braze with modern rods than to harden and temper HSS without a temp controlled furnace. From what I remember in the very distant past, HSS has a very narrow range of temps so the old heat her up until she glows xxx color in the dark trick...

As already suggested I would use a narrower toolbit. I would also use HSS and make it razor sharp to minimize cutting forces. Last crankshaft of that size I did, I used a 3/32" wide x 1/2" deep parting tool blade ground on the end as a turning tool. Softly softly catchee monkee. Plus the spacers...

Many steam engines have a stroke about twice the bore. Long stroke with small bore tends toward a lower-revving engine with more torque, which suits steam engines. Crank "length" aka throw has to be half the stroke you want. Con rod angle is determined by the length of the connecting rod. The...

A sort of refined version of brute force and ignorance then/ :D

So, how did you get the bezel off in the end? (Just in case I ever need to.)

+1 on what WOB said. Not really feasible for the home shop. It is more usual to make the body of your special tool out of mild steel, machine slots in it where you want the cutting edges to be, and silver-solder (or silver-braze as the pedant squad likes to call it these days) pieces of HSS...