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The book How to Run a Lathe suggests to use a lathe as a drill press place the drill in the chuck while holding the work against the tail stock. Advance the work with the tail stock crank. I'm not liking getting swarf in the tail stock taper but anyway that's what the book says.

Seals came from McMaster Carr. Search for seals. The double spring and single spring ones. Rear is 0.5x1, front is 0.375x0.75. Thanks for asking. Hey Steve, progress is slow but recently steady. Shop time gets tough for me in the summer.

Press in some seals. Front seal is in the timing gear cover. The rear seal is pressed in a special flanged ring which bolts on to the rear of the engine with 4 2-56 cap screws. Here's a couple of pictures. Front seal installed: Rear seal installed: Need a rear cam tunnel cover. I guess I'll...

Nice looking distributor George. I've got the electronics developed. I like your idea of putting the hall effect sensor outboard. I've generally mounted mine inside the distributor thus been troubled overheating it. I've gotten by by using sensors designed to take higher ambient heat. Been using...

I'm making plans for the electronic ignition. Most of my engines use an automotive coil but for thisone I want something smaller. I've seen pictures of modified weed wacker coils which looks to me like a primary winding has been added by applying some windings around the exposed core. Anybody...

Well, ran the pump a couple of hours and everything is sealed. The block was leaking. Mistakenly I had installed an early version of a head gasket which contained a design error. The pump seal also leaked and needed a redesign. Originally I was relying on a Delrin sleeve to seal the shaft. That...

I needed to test the water pump and check for leaks. Had no leaks in the block but did where the intake attaches to the heads. Working to seal that now. Here's a video of the pump pumping. I think its pumping well and the seal's not leaking.

I like this picture. Its a recent shot of the bottom end. It shows the bearing shells and the shaft tunnel. Look in the tunnel and you can see where the tappets will be contacting the cam. I used a ball end mill to mill the pockets for the crank. To save time I used a rather large scallop...

This this is a picture of the gear cover/water pump base. The hole in the center is the water intake into the pump. The left and right holes are pump outlets directly to the block. Here the pump is mounted. Hope it works. I'm worried about my shaft seal. Couldn't afford a seal for an 1/8 inch...

Here's a pic showing the way the intake mates up with the heads. Notice the plug in the lower right end of the head. The water passage is blocked off by that plug. Water turns just inside the end of the head and routes up through the manifold and out the goose neck. The goose neck pipe was...

Ahh, found the switch to editor mode. So here's a cylinder. Got the o-ring groove and o-ring in place. I used extra soft o-rings from McMaster-Carr. The plan is to seal the water jacket from the crankcase. Haven't yet tested it for leaks. I grease them up with Vaseline and slide the sleeve in...

Doing the heat treat. The thickness of the plate is important, about 1/8 inch. Turn the steel slightly dull red, remove the torch and let the ring cool for a minute or so. Getting it too hot is bad for warpage. To size the gap I grind it with a Dremel disc. I've tried filing them but end up too...

Here's a pick of me drilling the oil holes. I found a #60 drill was hard to keep in the center of the groove so I ground the shank end into a spade bit, gripped it close to the chuck. it worked well.

Sorry for the delay. Been busy. Got back to the rings. Decided to turn the oil rings and cleive them first then fixture them up to reduce the center.

I've made a few skeleton wall clocks along the way. One of my plans is displayed on my buddy's web site. http://freemansgarage.com/blog/?p=413 The only tricky part is making the wheels and lantern pinions. I've tried involute gears once with not so good results. My clocks all have 1 second...

You can store it on my shelf. Each glow plug takes about 3 amps @ 1.5 volts. So 8 plugs need 24 amps at 1.5 volts. That's a lot of power supply.

You can store it on my shelf.

I've got to split the rings before heat treat. Clieving compression rings is easy but I'm bewildered about slitting the oil rings. Seems the oil rings don't clieve to neatly. Any suggestions?

Keep in mind, once centered between two center spots any throw pins turned will be on that centerline. The throw plates are slightly off but they get faced in the same operation so that brings them back on. I like to finish the mains last because I find having the 5 mains lined up is critical...

"Curious to know how you were able to form the 5 centerbores on both ends of the crankshaft. How did you align it such to have the paired centerbores opposite of one another yet parallel along the axis?" Thanks for the question. Answer is that within reason they don't need to be aligned cuz any...