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This one of mine will cut that easily.

Indeed, tried myself and learned long ago. It was an interesting experiment, but now you know why they charge so much for machine tool grade bearings. Small rotary tools wont cut it for a precision application. Now if you want to create a wide toolholder that can take perhaps 1.5" od bearings...

Frankly, for cutting sheet that thin, I have been well served by a medium duty paper cutter my father purchased back in the 70's from an office supply store. Its not overly heavy duty, but it does a good job. I have cut soft .032 aluminum, and even circuit boards with it.

Probably not, just some way to prevent overpressure in event of a backfire from becoming a bomb. Probably much more useful in the starting and tuning phase, but its a possibility that can lead to more then just reworking a few parts if anyone gets hit by the fallout.

Looking good! You might want to consider adding a blow off plate to that intake manifold. Compressed air and fuel will want someplace to go if there is a backfire, and you dont want it driving your blower through the roof. :o

Ill second what Proace says, Ohio has a large fraternity of ham radio folks and they are very helpful.

I think it was Bill from the Road Knights that used to have a bunch of miniature working cars back when we displayed with them. One of these days I need to find all those old pictures.

Far enough downstream, with a good header design, the pulses are a bit smoothed out but still present. However, you can tap off a single cylinder easily enough. If your more prone to hide the plumbing, an eccentric or wobble plate type pump off the back of a camshaft would do the trick as well.

Welcome aboard Gary.

If you cant wait, the instruction pamphlet from the Sherline rotary table shows some of that, and should be available for download on their site.

There are ways to obtain the pressure pulses that may work with that carb. Tapping into the exhaust is one of them, crank blowby is another.

The weekend before Autorama is the busy time. A good friend of mine has a sheet metal shop, and gets a significant amount of last minute business up until Wed night for move in.. Of course, he got more of it when we were building his cars to that same deadline. :mad: Lest I digress too much...

No problem, whenever you get a chance. I must be getting old, I remember Autorama being on Daytona weekend.

Thanks, seemed to work out good for you!

If you want to get together tomorrow afternoon just drop me a line. I work till 5ish at 12/Haggerty

One of those "plenty of coffee nights", yeech. I wasnt happy with my MkI but it might just be the trick for a real CDI coil. (Or maybe your coil would be the trick for my engine?) We just need to get it working first, we can make whatever fit later.

Often, thats your first clue. If you can build it someone can measure it, and then, most of those fancy claims of a better idea meet cold harsh reality.:o Its much easier to cover up friction and physics with CGI and unrealistic FEA data. I am sure some people here can build some impressive...

http://www.sportdevices.com/rpm_readings/CDI_and_TCI.htm Well, at least according to that site, they do make special coils for CDI. I have a nice museum piece General Radio induction meter, will be interesting to see exactly what that coil is made of.

Looks good. What did you wind up using for a core sand recipie?

It all works on 12 (14.7) volts. But to be emissions compliant they use the backward kick from the coils to tell the ECU that it fired correctly. Usually a zener diode breaking down which charges a small cap to allow a digital input pin to register the event took place properly. Steve, if this...