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Buy good quality blades.

Turned out well. When I had to do a similar eccentric I made the strap first and turned the eccentric to match. But my strap wasn't a casting so it was easier to do it that way.

I really do need to get a bead blasting setup.

I'm flying up so bringing nothing to exhibit.

Gets better and better. I enjoyed reading how the 17mm spacing as drawn turned out to be 17.005mm in actuality. 2 tenths off. I assume that the "clutch" on the moon arms is to allow them to be positioned manually if adjustment needed.

More the merrier

I have seen the Ageless engine version at various model shows over the years, and Lee claims it's "easy" to build. haha I would think aluminum for weight over steel would be an advantage if one were to try to fly the engine. That said, since the engine itself rotates there will be a very...

Doing some rough math: 4000 parts made over 10 years = more than one part made per day. You really keep your nose to the grindstone.

I wouldn't use slotted screws myself.

Here are the plans: http://www.floridaame.org/Plans/HHM1/HHM1-Complete%20Engine%20Model.pdf

Press should do it, but one suggestion for a redo is to pack the cylinder in dry ice. Much colder than freezer. Or just use loctite.

How did you cut the teflon gaskets? I've been using an xacto knife. I like the drill fixture. I've been using a manual punch that is likely less accurate. I must have missed what the purpose of the miter gear is.

Chris was too modest to post his build thread, but I'm not. http://www.modelenginemaker.com/index.php/topic,6515.0.html

I assume that in the video the two "pendulums" are disconnected as I doubt they can be sped up. Also I don't see the hands moving, so it's a partial demo?

I was out of the country the past 3 weeks. Your progress during that time made for a delightful early morning read.

I have seen a couple of these models at shows. Great project.

A good challenge there.

Thanks. I ordered syringes and will remake the parts. This is a valuable technique to master.

My current experiment went a bit south. Not having the syringe, I just covered the entire part. Cured overnight, and then face milled the bottom to reveal the part. After half an hour at 400F the epoxy had turned orange like your photo, and while I was able to remove the part, there was still...

What's the reason for the cross slots around the bearings? I'm currently making some parts using this Devcon epoxy, a technique I discovered from you on the radial build. How do you get the epoxy into just the milled slots and not on the part face itself. Also, the color of the epoxy that I...