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Thanks. Yeah I re-lapped the cylinder, new piston and contra. Boring work good result in the end. I gave your cherrybombing technique a try but i'd lapped too much on the cylinder and the old piston just slid through.-P

Hi, finally got her done!!!! :cool: :cool: :cool: 🤟 🤟 Runs great and happy with the finish. For a first time anodising aluminium it worked out pretty well too. Being picky, maybe got a bit too dark in the end. The video below is of the second breaking-in short run on a 8x4 prop and my phone app...

Hi f2cf1g, I assume that is to heat red hot and cool a few times so the piston expands and then re-lap it? Any trouble with the gudgeon pin holes? Patrick

Partial success on a test run, but like all too often, need to take a step back before moving forward again. Long story short, I made a mistake on the piston manufacture. I used 1000 grit emery paper on a parallel method to take off a tiny bit before moving to the lapping stage. This ended up...

Hi, bit more shed time today. I am ready for assembly and final fettling tomorrow after which I will strip off the cylinder muff and prop spinner to anodise. All in all a good day in the workshop with some recovered near-misses narrowly avoiding the ever-growing scrap bucket. Some pics below...

Hi, I managed to have a go at this today. Thanks for all the advice. In the end I went with using a radius turning attachment. Happy-ish with the result as a first go but reckon i can do better. The trick is figuring where the centre of the radius should be as its somewhere off the workpiece in...

Even more off-topic....I had good success using replacement glass meant for a Vape device thingy to make a fuel tank for an aero. Worked a treat but was a tiny bit too small for the 1.8cc Boll Aero as it was only enough for a 2 minute run.

Worth a try! Wondering how to strip off the chrome plating though. Perhaps Lye?

Thanks Stan. Good to know. P

Hi, I normally go with a basic nut made of out mild steel hex bar on my aeros (or a nyloc nut on occasion). On my most recent build I thought I'd complete the look and make a nice prop nut/spinner as below. Anyone got any links/tips/tricks how to get the shape right? Any info appreciated as it...

great thread. Excellent to see other people's approaches. While we're on the subject of not 'cheating' and making your own. The one shown on the tank above was cut as below with a circular glass cutter. Took about an hour and great result. Without a lot of practice i got a near perfect glass...

cool! have bookmarked though not sure what the postage from US to UK might be... will have a look.

Loud as hell. love it. Funnily enough, the fastest runner had no cutaway on the crank for counterbalance (that engine was made from the not quite perfect/blemished parts I had left from the other two). Goes like stink!

Hi Bob. I used Cyanoacrylate glue. No problems with petrol/gasoline, Coleman fuel, Nitro glow fuel or Ether/Paraffin model CI engine fuel. The only annoyance is the white residue that can form on the inside of the glass as it dries.... not a biggie.

Hi, after playing around and wasting a load of time cutting my own glass disks to make sight glass on the Webster and other builds, I went searching for somewhere I could buy them pre-cut. Took me a while and thought I'd share with anyone thats interested. In the end the right search term was...

I just made three to the prototype design. They really are a great little engine. Any idea of RPM on a 8x4? i clocked mine at 13,000. No idea whether thats decent or not. Im tempted to get one back on the lathe and open up the transfer passage in the crank case ( i was scared of going too far...

Hi Ferdinand. Welcome to the forum!

A few pics making the crankshaft and cylinder liner. Hole drilled with a drill for most of the distance with a jobber drill and then cleaned up and the bottom flattened with a 4-flute endmill. I bought a slitting saw exactly the right size to make the exhaust ports. This seemingly simple...

Nice one mate. Lovely looking engine. Well done 👍