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I'm not sure you understood what I was saying. Just put a hole on location and put a plug in ant theen the correct thread size. You don't even have to clean up all the wrong hole as long as the one you put in on location has about 3/4 of the circumference. Ive corrected hole locations this way...

Yes that is the write up I started with and it is in this book. I see it is available here on vdocuments. I have the book and have made a few things from it. Vdocuments

Just drill a hole a couple thread sizes larger put a piece of ready rod in place with Locktite and mill or file flush to the engine block face then drill and tap the correct size in it. Its the same as using a threaded insert.

The end mills fit very snug have not had a problem yet. The endmills fit the spindle the same as they fit a posi lock tool holder.

Not many there are a few do a search for floating tool holder doc0455 they should come up it's been 6 or 7 years since I did the air spindle.

Ok now I messed up LOL I was just going to say also I see new to the trade people tighten the crap out of a vise and over time it will ruin the vise. If you keep your part or material low in the vise just sticking up high enough to get the job done it isn't necessary to tighten the crap out of it.

I was a Tooling engineer for about 25 years and about 15 years as a tool and die worker. You are very correct there is not anything perfect and for the most part I find that on most things if you are within .005 it is plenty good. But remember the smaller the part and engine the tighter the...

Kurt NC vise will not flex under normal tightening. If the bottom of your vice is clean flat and parallel to the top and you table top is clean and flat with no dings and you clamp it down tight in 4 spots it will significantly be better. Unless your vise back jaw mounting block where it is...

Here is a little demo video I put together today to show the effects of solid jaw when clamping and how it will not stay perpendicular when to much clamping pressure is used.

Sharpening end mills using my home built air bearing and on my new set up.

If you use a round stock on the movable side the lift of the movable jaw doesn't matter. The solid jaw has to be moving put the indicator on the back side of the solid jaw when tightening. If it moves then it is no longer perpendicular to the base which will make your part come out like you are...

Try this put an indicator on the back side of your solid vise jaw before you tighten and check the movement when you tighten your vise.

The engine shown in the bottom video are for sale here. https://www.enginediy.com/products/stirling-engine-kit-16-cylinder-stirling-engine-gas-powered-engine?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google%20Shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0tO6vI794QIVj7rACh27hQopEAYYASABEgKF2PD_BwE

When using a piece of round stock use only 1 thin parallel up against the back jaw. Just tap the block down on the parallel don't hammer it to hard. After that for the next cut put the face you just milled against the solid jaw and do the same. If your jaw is within .0001 if you are real...

If your back jaw is perfectly trammed in to 90 degrees to your machine head using the method I suggested you can get within .0005 fairly easy. You take the jaw lift totally out of play that way.

Use a piece of small round stock on movable side when clamping that way your stock will set up against the solid jaw and it should take care of the movable jaw lift.

Ok decal on printed on transparent gloss plastic.

Ok here is the air cleaner finished.

Ok cooled down I'll play around on making a wing nut tomorrow morning.