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Nope and I have always used the process as described in The Shop Wisdom Of Philip Duclos. And have never had much of a problem getting them to seat and give me good compression. LOL maybe I've just been lucky lol

I am hoping to be there unfortunately not showing just visiting. Here is a short video of the train that gives rides.

Here is a link to a play list of my sharpening set up I built. The set up works great and have sharpened quite a few end mills with it. https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLp95TDxCzDrUuniYh1oQgkzARzlEhp4LY

I think its the spring pressure and vers size of bore not the curvature of ends of the snap gauge. checking for out of roundness using a lathe is quite simple though. I have inside mic for small bores I use occasionally.

I mentioned a way of checking for out of roundness. A very simple way is take your cylinder put it in afour jaw chuck on the lathe. Clamp it only enough to hold it your not machining it only using lathe as a gauging device. Now try dialing the bore in with a dial indicator it will show you out...

And the od would have to be set over sized to allow for grinding.

But how do you grind to the correct dia when they are clamped at the dia of the cylinder. If you take a ring insert it into a sleeve the same dia as the cylinder and clamp it you have no material to grind unless you grind it under sized. That was the point I was saying. The sleeve you use has to...

I still say your cylinder bore is egg shapped from all the honing you have done on it. You can check quick by putting it in a 4jaw and trying to dial it in and see if it will run true. Just because it will run with o ring does not mead it is round as o rinds are very forgiving of and out of...

Unless you start with a sleeve larger than your bore you will most diffidently end up with out of round condition when you reduce the dia then put them back into the 1.000 bore on your engine. I would venture to say they are closer to round than they will be after doing what you are proposing...

I'm thinking of trying to do a better playlist on endmil sharpening. Here is my current list if you would like to see anything covered that isn't in the play list please feel free to speak up. Endmill sharpening https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLp95TDxCzDrUuniYh1oQgkzARzlEhp4LY

That would be my guess as a lot of honing by hand to get cylinder really smooth as for _o_ ring set up may have egg shapped cylinder same thing goes for emery paper on the lathe to much emery paper and you will have a shaft that is not truly round.

You don't want a real hot flame even propane turned up all the way is a little to hot for our small rings.

Thats right there is a lot of bad info on the net. Now for one thing you need to get the thought of the ring bending in one spot lol that is not the case it will bend and deform on the entire circumference thus it will be round. Rings when installed bend on the intire circumference not in abit...

The dia of the rings I cut I use the formula to calculate the circumference then add the slitting saw width then turn the sum back into a dia. That formula has worked for all the engines I have built so I know it works.

I know my longer videos don't seem to be liked but here is a video anyway on heat treat and how not to put a ring on lol now this it for a .750 bore. When I finished the engines it took a little bit to get them running but ran just fine with them after I gt the timing and fuel mixer sorted out.

When making 2 or 3 rings I use the method from the book "The Shop Wisdom Of Philip Duclos" This method has not failed me. When I make a larger quantity then I make a fixture for heat treating. Once you have made rings a few times you will say "that was easy" LOL

Or a 4 jaw chuck or face plate and a lathe. ;)

I have a set and use them quite often. They are nice to have when you need them I have some dial bore gauges and use them to set them up.

Proper press fit size depends on the dia size the bigger the dia the more interference you want as far as which causes the interference I would pick the softer metal, now thats just my preference.

No blade are not necessary can be run with out. I have mine set up with the small hole in flywheel towards the tail with the power piston at top of stroke and the vibrations are minimal funny how I have both the same as it happened just by chance. lol