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Yes 3d cad has been around well before the 90's. I worked in the tooling side f the shop since 1974 and retired a couple years ago. I mainly designed large hydraulic fixtures for nc machines and some progressive dies. Worked on stuff for the CH47 helicopter for the military just before I...

Are you sure you don't have an out of round going on? If you put cast iron rings in I personally don't like lapping the cylinder as the rings don't seem to seat well for me I like the boring marks left in and then running with another engine or an electric motor to seat the rings. I have had...

Exactly the normal that I live by and the default usually is a 125 finish so unless specified it can be up to a 125 you can go better bt that is up to the builder.

If you have tried O rings and that many tries with cast iron rings I would venture to say you need to do some work on the cylinder or the valves. I know this can be a bugger of an engine to get to preform. And yes the only way to adjust things is to make parts over. I still may try my hand at...

Or this one it comes down to putting in the time to sort things out not trickery!

LOL you mean like this one.

You should be able to quite it a little with the ignition timing. Here is a video that I attempt to show that with an odd's and end's engine.

In an Atkinson Differential it is the position of the exhaust hole that controls the exhaust timing isn't it. Even though no cam there is a timing of the valve opening under pressure. I have the plans and did model most of it up in CAD but never got around to building it. Only way to delay the...

I agree with Terry your exhaust valve is opening to soon . This will really make a difference in the way the engine runs and the sound. There has to be an exhaust cam to open the exhaust valve the intake yes it can be the vacuum of the intake stroke but not the exhaust.

I too totally 110% agree it's normal. Only way to get away from it is to go to an electronic ignition with a cap discharge. And yes others are entitled to have a say trouble is you need to be careful not to be led astray. The cap is only there to lessen the spark not totally get rid of it.

Actually the coil is on the weaker side and is too slow by messing with the spring it allows it to work with the weaker coil.

I tore it apart and powder coated some of the parts. I don't do a lot during the summer in the shop. Usually to busy out side. Well today was a crappy day outside so I started putting her back together again. Not sure but I may powder coat the heads yet. I'll decide once I get her all back...

oops

I built mine as many have the ones purchased are most I've seen are computer heat sink cores .

Man that has to be a terrible feeling. Some times you need to take a break step back and take another run at her. I'm sure you'll sort her out and get back at it.

Yes mine is based on the one in the one described. I took the basics and added my twist to it. The spindle and the bore are the critical features. The bore I did on the lathe in a four jaw chuck. The finish pass's it was just enough pressure to hold the part. I took many finish pass's to get it...

Yes I like to have things modeled up before building anything. I like to check fits and stuff first.

1/4 black hose

Haha I'm right with you Steve!

I personally would put a threaded plug in with loctite leave it a little proud of the surface and then mill it flush.