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Thank you.

Coming to the completion of my Stuart 10v. Contemplating on my next engine, Stuart # 4. I know the crank comes as a casting/forging in steel. Has anyone fabricated a crankshaft for this engine per the 10v. Thanks

Just for the record. I'm no machinist, nor do I wish to be one. I take perfectly good material and turn it to swarf. Im just a hack having fun with a cheap lathe and mill drill learning as I go and most importantly having fun.

Yep calipers. I have telescoping gauges but have never used them. Might be a good time to start using.

It's a plain bearing block made from bronze. Drilled and bored to size. I machined a shaft for it (surface finish a little course) to the dimensions mentioned and it wouldn't fit. I think as mentioned in a previous reply. The finish may have something to do with it.

I wondered that as well. Checked it, and it was good.

No, I machined a shaft to fit a bearing. Making it .0015 undersize to fit inside a plain bearing. It wouldnt fit. I tried breaking the edges of the shaft with a file still no good. So then machined another couple thou and went from being to tight to to loose.

Not an interference fit. Dave

Why after machining a shaft to fit a bearing lol, it wont fit. In fact I'm finding in some cases I have to go undersize three or four thou. Used a deburring tool on the bearing and a file on the corner edge of the shaft and no luck. What am I doing wrong?

I should have done that in the first place. Seriously thou, thanks for pointing out the obvious. Live and learn.

I picked a mill/drill practically brand new for 500$ Canadian six yrs ago. It has its short comings, but it does what I ask of it. If it's good enuf for Keith Appleton, it's good enuf for me.

So gents here it is. New connecting rod, big end machined to spec. This obviously is the top half of the rod. The spec from center of big end to center of little end is 1 11/16". I have layed this out out on the little end and as you can see, not in the center. I have a few ideas, what do you think?

I recall the words "hydrodynamic wedge" being used explaining the film of oil between bearing and pins.

Lol I'm no machinist either. I'm good at taking perfectly good material and turning it into scrap in a very short period of time. I can lay metal in thou. As I'm a pipe welder by day and a wanna be model maker by night.

That's what I pictured. In any case I purchased a new rod forging and will start over. Good practice for me.

I opted out for two more connecting rods, as they are reasonably priced and readily available.

Hi Andrew, As a matter of fact, I'm watching most of your videos to build this engine. The vid of the con rod is what I've looked at recently. Good for you on adapting to the twisted small end of the rod. It worked out well and doesn't seem to affect the engines performance at all. Thanks

How obvious, never thought of that. They'll need to be .100 thick. I went and ordered another con rod yesterday. No big deal. Live and learn. Thanks

Maybe this will help explain what I'm getting at. You'll notice the split at the big end to little end center is what it should be. The problem is I had to remove .050 from each half of the big end to get it right. In doing so, I now have insufficient material to drill and ream the big end bore.