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For bearings and cross heads, I've always used whatever my car or lawnmower was having, without ill effect. I have a 60 y/o car, and I don't use synthetics. There has recently been a thread here explaining what oils will hurt bronze- worth looking out. I think the guy was calling out certain...

Razzle, I have just checked the UK "big hitters" in our modelling scene... These are- Reeves 2000 Stuart Models GLR Kennions And also, Macc Models Steamfittings.co.uk (Usual disclaimers, of course, and there are many others.) Macc Models produce one safety valve threaded 1/2" x 26...

Wow! PMR could confuse anyone- that's before you read of their "let's make it up as we go along!" Series... -Andrew UK

I should have mentioned... If you break a carbon steel tap, you can anneal it, to help you get it out. If you break one in brass, you can often loosen it by applying a strong solution of alum and leaving the work in your airing cupboard for a week. -Andrew UK

Razzle, the proposed model engineering standards were constant pitch 32 and 40 tpi. There are also 0.5, 0.75 and one millimetre constant pitch series for metric workers. These were put to the British Standards Institute, and can be found as P.D.6507/1982. One enterprising manufacturer made a 60...

The Peter O'Toole line... "I am not a gentleman, I merely try to be. "

Look to the Stuart site. Look at the price of the casting sets, and then realise that Stuart's do sell *some* of their models ready to run, at six times the casting set price. For many people on this list, the joy of building castings into engines is what it's all about... To gauge real...

Another trick I've used before is to use a parallel hand reamer instead of a machine or chucking reamer- and use the reamer's lead to leave a constriction in the bore. That and a hardened commercial dowel could do the trick nicely.

Of course, rod failure makes such a mess, it can be very difficult to ascertain exactly what let go! Back in the day, when VW beetles started blowing away Chevies, rods were a problem. They were typical "I" beams, of forged steel. For a while, the hot ticket was to fill the "I" with weld (yes...

I've got a FTPT on the go, I've put it on a radial mount. I did meet up with a fellow builder who made one for marine use. He explained that he made his conrods to the drawing, but he had a problem with almost immediate failure, and that assembly was impossible without boring through the bottom...

If you're going metric, go by 0.1. Most tapping sizes are in between 0.5 increments- 3.3, 4.2, 6.8 etc. Ditto for clearance sizes. There are imperial and gauge drill equivalents. For bigger drill sizes "blacksmith's drills" are made- not fantastic practice, but bigger sizes, still with a 1/2"/...

Well, I started young, with a hateful 1930s lathe, (rubber mandrel, no handwheel divisions) and proceeded to build a Stuart 10V with nothing else but a worn out bench drill and hand tools. I have no idea, now, how I achieved this! However, I bought my drills, taps and dies as they were needed...

I think I've mentioned the Great Eastern before! Ever seen that famous photo of Brunell? It was taken at the water's edge, while they were trying to launch her- she was then the largest ship ever built! She had screws powered by conventional engines, but the paddlewheels were powered by BIG...

The Cygnet is a well proven design. Why not do a double rox, six cylinder version? witha hex crankcase, the design is begging for it! Kirk at Hemingways is a nice chap, and he'll sell you extra castings if you ask... He might want some photos of the finished engine though!

Fot surface speeds, aluminium and brass (especially) are very forgiving. You can do it on those diameters without adjusting spindle speed.

Ideally this detail would be done using a trepanning tool- one that is made to part into the face of the work. These thing are ground like left hand grooving tools but presented as you would a boring tool; with extra clearance ground to allow them to clear the inside of the radius they are...

Your best plan, I think, would be to investigate the possibility of rigging up the detent and plates from your dividing head (40:1) onto your rotary table which is likely to be 90:1 (or 180:1) and get the job done that way. The spread sheet that someone has kindly provided is for compound...

Are you sure you've sent the right link? Why not secure the workpiece (your cylinder) to the cross slide with tee bolts and packing, and drill/ream from the headstock? That's what those tee slots are generally for... After securing a toolpost, that is. Horizontal boring.

You haven't said what lathe you are using... Does it have a tee slotted cross slide?