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If you have a boring head put that in your tail stock, make a centre for the boring head and offset the boring head to your taper requirements, this will save you having to offset the tail stock and you can use the power feed to machine the taper for it's full length. Mike 1

Should "pop" when the valve opens after intake stroke Mike.

A look at this site may help certainly worth a look, http://www.enginemuseum.org/index.html I may be wrong on this but I think the museum used to do castings for the Gardner Model O. Mike.

Are these any help OCLE Launch Engine. Mike 1.

Being a Cumbrian (UK) the word Fettle can be (Dialect) used in conversation such as What's your fettle, meaning how are you. Or I'm bad fettle today, meaning I'm not feeling well today, Or I'm in good fettle, meaning I'm feeling well. A bit of useless information but there you go. Mike.

See here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/P5B-Automatic-Boiler-Pressure-Regulator-Live-Steam-/371899868321 Mike.

That's good to hear, enjoy your engine. Mike.

The cap on the top of the lubricator is the filling cap, screw off to fill with oil, the pipe for the oil and steam is the one fixed to the steam chest which has a needle valve incorporated to regulate the oil flow to the engine, the steam enters through this pipe from the steam chest and...

If you can pre heat the steam before it gets to the engine this will dry the steam and give a better preforming engine, I run the steam feed pipe through the boiler flue as in the photo, the small diameter pipe is the steam feed to the engine which is looped in the flue, (Centre flue boiler)...

For a translucent tank fitted to the engine see Here http://modelenginenews.org/weaver/Weaver_pg7.html The pictures can be viewed at a larger size by clicking on them, whatever tank you use you will probably have to make them. Mike.

Don't bin your engine most engine builders have gone through the no start phase, at least the engine is popping and banging, check fuel needle settings which can be critical and maybe try petrol see if that makes any difference. If you have compression, a timed spark, fuel at the needle jet...

You may have your fuel tank level too high causing the fuel to syphon, the top of the tank should be level with the jet or below, the engine suction should pull the fuel through the jet. Set the ignition to fire at TDC once it is running you can adjust for best running position. I don't have...

I think you can still buy new Myford lathes (at a price ) and spares are also available. Link here https://www.myford.co.uk/acatalog/New-Lathes.html

Hammer drive screws are what you need they come in all sizes and material https://www.toolfastdirect.co.uk/acatalog/Hammer_Drive_Screws___Type_U_Round_Head.html Mike. Smaller amounts should be obtainable.

Thought I would give it a try Water Pump for Centaur Mike. Sorry forgot to resize !!

Nice looking engines, time your twin as two separate engines. Mike.

Your drawing shows a built up piston with the two rings sandwiched between the top and bottom of the piston, if it was me I would make the piston solid and cut grooves for rings or graphite packing. Mike.

If the engine gets hot when trying to start it may be too far retarded, set the ignition to fire at TDC and give that a try. Mike.

Is this any help' Mike

Your key No may be K30, but look at this stockist list it may help. http://www.newmantools.com/jacobs.htm#suplink Mike.