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The Standard was fixed to my shiny new Faceplate by clamping onto the lower bearing hub each side. My guesstimation with getting a flat base with the engineers square can't have been too bad. The Standard only needed a thin strip of aluminum, from a drinks can, to get the top of the Standard...

With the Standard fixed to the aluminium plate, and appearing reasonably flat and level, it was machined in my milling machine. The aluminium plate was placed on two steel parallels in my milling vice and tapped down on top of the parallels. This gave me a nice base to machine from, but it was...

The Standard was tackled next. The top and bottom of the Standard were uneven, so I took some time to file the top until it was nice and flat. I also checked it stood up vertically with an engineers square. I needed a way of holding the Standard and I discovered that there is a shelf like...

Thanks Craig, you are correct about the thread, it was very shallow. The book that I have been using is: Screwcutting (Crowood Metalworking Guides) by Marcus Bowman (Author) That book has been really useful. I have since checked other sources and they specified a #50 or 1.8mm drill bit. When...

My next project is the P.M. Research #5 Steam Engine. The picture below is the #5 from the P.M. Research website. It has a mixture of cast material, including aluminium, brass and iron. First impresions are very good, the cast parts look excellent and the drawings very clear and precise. A...

Nearly done 😊 I'm having a little break from this project for a while to let my buddy build partner catch up.

According to the plan for the Twin Oscillator you take a chunk of mild steel and turn it down to a 1/8" disk with a 5/32" shaft coming off it. I didn't really like that approach, so I fabricated it from a seperate disc and shaft, then added the small offset shaft.

Thank you for your response Jason 😊 I took the first option. I took some measurements of the cylinders and covers, made a CAD drawing which indicated a 0.3mm cut into the cylinder grooves. I actually took a 0.4mm cut with a 2.5mm ball end cutter. I tried the covers over the cylinders and...

I've made the top and bottom cylinder ends, being careful to make sure the drawing sizes appers sensible. However when I try to attach the top and bottom ends to the cylinders it looks like the PCD that the three holes is on, seems a bit too small. 😦 I've checked the drawing over, that seems...

We have machined the cylinders for our single and twin oscillators. Still have the steam passages and the mounting holes to do for the cladding

I did think the Stuart Twin Oscillator would be a simple engine to machine, I was wrong! Ensuring everything is level, measuring, centering, drilling all the steam passages was quite a task. I also had to do some maths (Sin and Cos) to place some of the holes. I had a bit of a problem finding...

Thank you for your reply Jason, the photograph is very useful. As it is not critical I might make a peg to fit and turn the end down to 3/32". After a surgery I was immobile for a while and I drew up a set of drawings for the Stuart Progress. I used them when I made my Stuart Progress and...

Hi Richard, The bore and stroke are 7/16". The standard is gunmetal which seems to machine very nicely, the cylinders are made from a brass extrusion.

HELP! Whilst drilling the back side of the Twin Oscillator standard, I've followed what i now think is an incorrect dimension on the plan. On the photograph below the hole in question, indicated by the pen, shows on the plan to be 5/32" diameter. While I was drilling it I had a doubting...

The Single Oscillator standard was machined without any problem, then we moved onto the Twin Oscillator standard. I used my 50mm face cutter to mill the base and all the other flat surfaces. I reall love the finish the 50mm face cutter leaves, as can be seen in the attched photographs. Now...

The painting has been completed and all the parts assembled with gaskets. I ran it on air again and it runs very well, even at slow speeds. Picture of my Progress are below.

Hi Bruce, if it was a 1/8" through hole then the undercut on the thread end could go completely through. Sarah

You are correct Jason, the small end does go into the main standard in a tapped hole. I don't think there is any need for the counterbore.

Thank you Jason 😊 The one I've made may be okay but may be a bit thin around the under cut. I'll order some more brass .