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For 35k, they should send someone to your house, if you have a problem. Sounds like a great machine.

Not according to my wife! As with any project, take it one step at a time and build on that. I always try to think things through in advance of doing them. Doesn’t always guarantee no mistake, but it helps.

The spindle that will go through the large canister perpendicular to the pivot axis will allow you to cut bevel gears, etc, on an angle. it will make a little more sense when I get the canister mounted on the frame.

In an aside, my son had the pleasure to visit your great country last year. He enjoyed it every much.

I probably should have shown a picture of what I’m building. I’ll do that now. It’s a four part series that caught my mechanical fancy. I may never use it when it’s done, but it looked interesting and I had some of the main gears.

I just finished making the pivot points on the Indexer. I made them out of stainless, my metal of choice. In the first picture, I’m removing the burr after counterboring, gives a nice look. The plans called for a press fit and the welding on the inside, but I decided to press and then drill and...

These are photos of the completed “body” of the Indexer with the plates installed. The tap set is a Snap on blue point set, HSS with adjustable dies which I picked up at a “ thrift shop”.

In the first photo, I’m counterboring the 6-32 Allen bolt holes in one of the cover plates. There are two of them. In the second photo, I’m spot drilling with a “body size” drill in the rim. In the last photo, I’m drilling the rim holes with a tap size drill, 1inch deep. The tap for 6-32 is a...

Appreciate the reply, thank you.

Got A question, the way I’ve been posting pictures Is: I click on the attach files button. Then when the search photos prompt comes up, I go to my photos on my Ipad and select the photos I want. This seems to work. Right or Wrong? I guess I’m not sure at this point.

This is a new project I’m working on. In the first photo, I’m turning a large 5 1/2 inch piece of schedule 40 pipe. With the overhang, I’m turning slow and taking light cuts to true up the pipe. In the second photo, I’m cutting a piece of railroad tie steel, I found While hiking. It’s “mystery”...

As an Atlas lathe owner, I take exception to the term “wet noodle” used to describe a lathe I have had for 50 years. It has served me well. The accuracy is far better then I will ever need. Is it a LeBlonde? Which I’ve worked on. No, it’s not a tool room lathe? No, it’s all relative, to what you...

There’s an M head up on Ebay right now, item number 303591800572, which has been professionally rebuilt. About $2100 or offer. It’s in western Pennsylvania. I know that’s a jaunt for you but better then $4000. Make an offer, figure out the gas, one way trailer rental from Uhaul. Make a ”fun”...

This particular piece attaches to the motor and then the drum switch attaches to it. As you can see, it’s been through the “wars.” And I‘m to blame. I was moving the machine and the head pivoted down, with the cast iron piece breaking. Well, I brazed it up and repainted it. All done right...

The guy I bought it from was a machinist/diemaker. User beware.

Must have had enough” meat” in there to grind it to an R8. Like I said earlier, all I heard was Bridgeport, when I bought mine. The guy at work was probably happy to get rid of it for the $900, he was asking. As I’ve gotten further into this mill, the table is 42 inches. The center 20 inches has...

As I’ve said before, I’m no expert. I’ve never seen a South Bend Mill.

I’m no expert as mine is not up and running as of yet. The fact that it has either a morse taper, Brown and Sharp or another taper which escapes me. R8 is the standard taper which is in basic use. The M head is limited to perhaps a 3/4 inch mill. I will push this limit. Mine has a 1/2 HP motor...

I well understand. There was no shedding of tears as that M head departed. The J would be a big upgrade as well as the SB.