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could you please retract/delete this, it is yet another off-topic post that I'd prefer not to have cluttering up this blog (and while you mean well, its also factually incorrect in a number of ways, and no I don't want de-bunking this to be part of the blog either)

I owe you one, and you have my respect for respecting my wish :-) !!!

water pump housing needs inlet pipe if you have a mill vise you're at the start of a long journey of collecting necessary clamping fixtures and devices :) !!!

what makes you think this is a Sperry gyro, there are no markings on it what-so-ever, I'm not up on the history and don't know how much competition Sperry had if any, and even if it is a Sperry why would they all (civilian and military) be 115V ? The one I have is physically limited to about...

this is a brushless motor, and its an inside out motor, the stator with coil windings is on the inside, and the rotor is on the outside, so that most of the mass of the rotor is at the largest possible radius, giving the rotor the largest possible rotational inertia which is what gives it its...

this is a WW-II vintage artificial horizon electrical gyroscope, or more precisely just the innards, no instrument panel display and no case, that I'm re-building, because in addition to engines I like all things mechanical (clocks too!), and who doesn't find gyroscopes to be mysterious and...

I refuse to buy any brand of wrench where more thought goes into the handle than the tip, that includes Wera and Wiha and most others that are more eye candy than anything else, sticking with Bondus, but have to admit that I have at least two of every size, with the ball ground off of one...

there's two gears in the propellor reduction gearbox up front, there's a multitude of gears in the "wheelcase" (Rolls Royce term) in the back, you probably need to know both, but you should be clear what you're asking for PS, I highly recommend stripping all the black paint off, IMHO this...

the person that designed and made the castings for that kit is Richard Maheu, if you still need plans I can probably pass on to you his contact info.

it is not realistically possible to lap a blind hole and not get any taper (in spite of the fact that you can buy laps that are single ended for blind holes!) in order to get a good lap you must have the lap move both circularly to even out the roundness of the bore and axially to even out any...

Yes, we were all "new" at some point, and needed help in one way or another, welcome to the club, I hope you enjoy the journey ! get Kozo Hiraoka's book "Pennsylvania A3 Switcher, first project for beginner", its *perfect*, with good technical drawings including both plane views with dimensions...

I hate it when plans come with descriptions of, or ordered lists of, operations to be performed, I always DO have a list of operations and critical dimensions with me any time I go out the the milling machine, but the process of making my own list is part of the process of understanding the part...

perfection is the enemy of git-er-done, this doesn't look great, but will be functional and well hidden inside the water pump mostly machined on a tilting rotary indexer, with a little bit of dremel work afterward the entry and exit blade angles are wrong for a water pump, but won't make much...

the real question is why use *taper* pipe threads at all, far, far easier to use plain straight threads and a little dab of loctite thread sealant (not thread locker!) ??? I use only two grades of loctite for model engines "sealant" for anything that I might need to disassemble in the future...

Brian, not making solid one-piece cam shafts is eventually going to bite you, this isn't your best long term option. eventually this is what you will want, IMHO, YMMV, VWPBL, yada, yada, yada...

Brian, take a look at the cam grinder I made, there are also others on YouTube if you search for "model cam grinder" or "grinding", "radial 9", "ken hurst", and "ruud oort" made grinders where the cam blank and the master-cam are on different shafts, IE different (parallel) axies...

since you took the head out of the vise before at least using a 90-deg countersink to get a start, you'll have a hard time now getting a concentric seat (don't ask me how I know this :-( !!!) my advise, for what its worth, is this, put the head back in the vise, do your best to get your quill...

OK, how's this for back on topic, I tried building a working model engine from the book in German "Strahlturbine fur Flugmodelle Im Selbstbau" by Kurt Schreckling, I thought, well, how hard can it be, I even have 1/2 german blood, but I can say with quite a bit of authority that if you try to...

FYI, these are "one way needle roller bearings", because they have perfectly round needle bearings, while a sprag clutch has non-round, oval shaped, sprags NB, I and several other BAEMCub members have learned the hard way they are designed to be run on hardened steel shaft, if you run them on...

I've bought two tilting vises, the second one was just barely useable after putting some brass shims in one of the two circular ways, the first one was a total loss. it's like these were made for woodworking not for metalworking, at least that's been my experience. The one pictured here at...