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Well It is bored. It is not off center it is angle of camera. Used gauge blocks made from brass, with the final one a go-no-go of .001". Didn't even catch the finger :)

The kitchen is done. Finger still in a splint to prevent having displacement and thusly surgery. Already stiff enough. Got two fractures in one bone. Pain pretty well under control unless I do something stupid, like jam it into something. Anyhow I had to come back to see how deep I was...

I am not adverse to modern technology and "tools" Thanks for thr reminder. BUT my hand is going to really resttrict progress for a while.

broke my hand when disposal fell on it no telling how long till i can work on it

Oops forgot photos It is slow going as to reduce flexion I can only take a .001 cut per run, very slow going, and often I do twice at the same setting to avoid highs and lows.

Had moments here and there, got the cast aluminum base leveled. Spent probably 2 hours trying to get the cylinder indicated in. Never had such a difficult time, but finally got it. Using a 1 1/4" tool steel bar that got a carbide bit Silver Soldered to it. Working well. I still have...

Not much to say, Got it all reamed and the shaft turns glassy smooth with fingertips. Halves separated and solder wiped off while still hot, recheck shaft after all said and done. The first photo is how I kept the bearings tight while drilling.

Brass worked like a charm. Still soldered together. After boring the base, drilling a combination oiler and locator pin hole, it should be good to go.

Well bronze doesn't work well, will not solder together with plumbing solder and don't want to use silver solder, so working on brass now, at least it soldered.

Where am I? Bearing caps. Straightforward mill working. Then had to stop to make a plug to mold some bronze for the bearings. Soft solder and bronze don't like each other, even with flux. But they are soldered and ready to hit the lathe. Will do the outside to dimension, and several...

Then with great trepidation the area at 45 degrees where the bearing cap goes was cleaned up to get the whole 45 degree. By using the previously measured and punched location dots for CL of the crankshaft was used to score a line across both, these too also got a punch mark so the calipers...

Caught up on kitchen waiting on contractors to do their thing for awhile so get some time to play. Got the hole for the gear axle done. Drilled from one side only, fearing walking, but not so. Used a cobalt bit, went slow and drilled like I was working in brass, just pecking. Came thru...

That is close to what I did, not a gauge pin but steel that was dead on OD. When it was difficult to pass but passed I called that good enough. Again, I don't think the clearance is that important until you get to the mounting end....that is critical, but that is not difficult to get good...

Well, I just settled for 1.5. The end shown in the photos is now faced and the recess for the cylinder assembly created. Took my face mill and used the 4 jaw. Piece of cake. Plus tore up the kitchen some, with more today. My body can only take so much of that really physical stuff at a...

Having issue with tolerance. There is no way I have tools accurate enough to measure inside diameter to within .0005". First, I see no need for that tolerance in the cross slide area, and the front part I can measure more accurately which is what I believe is the important part as the...

I think I would like to include a statement of lack of knowledge. I am just going at it here. No special training, not a machinist, it's all play to me and I surely am doing some things incorrectly. What I show is just my approach and does not mean it is the correct way to do things. It is...

So I spent hours yesterday skimming. Had to take enough cut to prevent chatter. Was interesting how speed of travel and depth of cut were very independent of each other. After about 40 passes the smoothest finish was acheived. I stopped about 0.075 from finished diameter waiting on an...

Sure am tired this evening. All that thinkin' I guess. Had to do other things this morning, like get a hunk of granite to get a flat surface. That helped me figure out the height of the C/L. Then spent a great deal of time on the jig. Of course the new bolts (Hillman Fasteners) stripped...

That is loaded question. The size of the perlite makes a big difference. I just guess.

After a long discussion with a retired machinist friend of mine, it sounds like if I take it really slow and easy with modifications to tooling this can be done. Building a holding jig now for the lathe slide. Guess I should get a photo or two. So far have made the base parallel to the C/L...