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Further building the design with the critical parts and dimensions and checking if the head can be fitted into the 3-jaw chuck (10mm black rectangles). First cilinder cooling jacket ready to be soldered.

Starts looking like the original.

Cutted 4 discs out of 50mm (2") brass stock by hand to serve as raw material for the top and bottom of the cooling sleeve. The two tops are finished on the manual lathe, apart from the decorative outside. This will be done on the CNC lathe. Next are the bottom sections and the two tubes. Once...

Great idea, will do that for my 2VD5. Not only very helpfull to check the design, but later also as a gimmic to show the internal structure of the engine.

By shortening the top of the piston by about 10 mm. This will bring the piston pin to about half height of the piston i.e. the piston will be more symmetrical while the original one is unsymmerical.

Found out that my cylinders are made from ST52, a easy to machine type of steel 🤪. Had a chat with a lady that knows a lot about machining and it turns out that I was doing the wrong thing, especially when using the carbide inserts. This tube has a hard layer and if you start with a gentle...

The cylinder will stand on the crank housing with a small ridge and above that ridge, there will be a octagonal ring (cut in two pieces) that will hold the cylinder down onto the crank housing. A thought of pressing this octagonal ring onto the cylinder, but that would mean that I can never...

It was cut to length +4 mm (1/6") surplus by the supplier by bandsaw but it is also easily cut manually with a hacksaw, using a fresh sharp blade. I do not own any power saw, so have to cut everything by hand. Looking forward to cut the 6 discs for the cooling jackets and cylinder heads out of...

Richard, I did not find this on the scrap yard, but bought it brand new at a model building shop (costs about 1 Euro/Dollar per cm/half inch). However, the scrap yard is indeed a very good source for these tubes, but you have to be lucky to find them in time before they are cut/bend or thrown...

Cylinder liners are finished, apart from a groove/recess to fit it to the crank housing. These will be cut later. Base material is a piece of honed 25 mm (~1 inch) ID hydraulic cylinder tube.

Currently designing the core of the engine: - Cylinder liner - Cooling jacket - Cylinder head - Valve Cages Especially the head is interesting with routing the internal cooling channel and intake/exhaust channel. Cooling comes in from the bottom into the jacket, leaves on the opposite side...

I use this material with great succes. https://www.bengs-modellbau.de/material/dichtelemente/abil-dichtpapier It is a material with a cellulose-base and a NBR-binder.

Hi all, I have a question regarding a wasted spark scheme i.e. two spark plugs firing at the same time in a two cylinder engine. In the book of Doug Kelley, there is the Titan, a 2 cylinder 360 degree engine. Here I understand the wasted spark idea: one plug fires at the end of the compression...

I overlooked one thing, the liners can indeed start sliding, but with a little change in the part that is called "combustion chamber" this can be solved. Anyway, today a brand new gass-torch arrived, so I can start practicing with brazing, so in future I might braze of soft solder this joint...

I had a look at the drawings and if I m correct, the bond is "only" holding the cooling water inside. All forces due to combustion are mechanically taken by bolt, nuts, seals and interlocking parts. As the pressure on the cooling water is relative low, I expect that epoxy will work. I would...

Started the design work by: - Choosing the scale ratio based on 25mm bore. - Printing all drawings in right scale on mm-grid paper - Determining the critical dimensions e.g. piston length, con rod length, compression volume, distance between crankshaft and camshaft

Done

I had some doubts on the gripping of a grubscrew for the small gear on the crankshaft without the shaft having a flat area. Never build an engine before, I wanted to maximize the chance of it to run without parts coming loose. So came up with the following: - Cam fixed to large gear - Small...

Routing the wires in a neat way on the new/final base.

Running on a true needle carburetor by Chuck Fellows design.