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Please find attached a manual that I wrote to describe the method I used for casting the tin crank case covers. Regards, Xander

Increased the temperature of the tin to improve the details in the casting. Now it even flows into the narrow vent holes.

Paint test to see if the paint adheres well to the tin.

I use this technique by Joe Pie. YouTube by Joe Pie

1st time casting. Really happy with the result. Three more to go.

Which material? The 3D print or the final tin/pewter product?

First and second attempt to make a sand cast mold. The white 3D printed template is 37 x 37 mm (about 1.5 x 1.5 inch). Next is to buy pewter.

Rack and pinion or eccentric press gives better feel since there is a direct mechanical link, where hydraulic gives you more brute force. I would love to have a small rack and pinion one day, but indeed price is rather high. For delicate jobs I will continue to use a small 2 inch wide vise to...

For final use it will be held in the vise to keep it stable. One extra feature not to lose the lever extension which also serves as the handle for the release valve. Will paint it one day with some leftover metal paint.

Today I converted an old hydraulic car jack and some rest material into a shop press. No more pressing bearings and dowel pins using the bench vise, but a proper and stable vertical press.

Slow but steady. Finished the pre-machining of the dummy cilinder head. Before I go to the expensive 60mm (2.5") diameter brass, I test all machining steps on a piece of aluminium. After turning and saw-cutting away the bulk material, the 0,0-ref point is reamed and a reference plane is milled...

Hi, I'm not building the air start. The head design is already rather complicated as it is going to be a machined part from bar stock. A casted head would leave more options, but still, adding another functional valve in the already tiny head would give me headaches

Last week CNC milled some flanges, soft soldered the cooling jackets. Next is to pressure proof them with air while holding them submerged under water. No bubbles = succes. Internally, there is a nice filled of solder. The gap visible on the outside is due to a too large chamfer/debur on the...

Nice project. What is the wall thickness of the cylinder liner? For my 2VD5 I did not dare to go under 3 mm (1/8").

A friend 3D-printed me a template for the crank case covers. Next is to deburr it, cast it in heat resistant silicone and replicate it in pewter. Size is 37x37x2 mm (1.5 x 1.5 x 0.08 inch) with 4 mm (0.16 inch) font.

Made a medal for the skipper of the tug boat "Odilo" to thank him for supporting me in building this engine.

Very nice casting. Only needed to remove 0.6 mm (0.02") off the thickness and 2.5 mm (0.1") of the diameter to clean it up. There are only 3 hard inclusions in the side face, for the rest, very homogenious cast iron. Next are the cranking holes and polishing.

Type plates done

Start working on the flywheel by cutting off the casting runners. Next is to mount and center it on the face plate. This 120 mm x 45 mm (5" x 1 3/4") piece of cast iron is the biggest I had ever on my small lathe. Also made some brass type plate by transferring a laser printed graphic onto...

Went on board the Odilo (built in 1927) today to determine some last dimensions of the 2VD5. Very warmly spoken by Eddy who even started the engine for me. What an engine, at idle speed you just feel the boat sway around the longitudinal axis due to the individual power strokes. Now I have all...