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Freshly ground and stoned HSS toolbit 60 degree point, 4th from the left. Very slow feed rate, i.e. much smaller than 1/5 of the nose radius per revolution. So really single point turning the profile. Any attempt to turn it with a wider (form) tool were unsuccessful and resulted in chatter.

Valve cages are in. The exhaust valve is set slightly deeper to reduce impact of thermal load.

Wow, great idea to have it combined in one valve and the straight air inlet channels. What is roughly the diameter of the valve? Just an indication is enough to get a feeling for the other dimensions. Do these combined valves directly replace the intake valves or is there another intake valve...

Hi there, I was wondering if I can run my IC engine 25 mm (1 inch) bore on propane or butane (or mixture) to avoid having the need for a carburetor. Just running idle is sufficient, no need for various RPMs as it will only be used to run the engine for demonstration only. My idea is as follows...

I use a cellulose base with NBR rubber binder compound. https://www.bengs-modellbau.de/material/dichtelemente/abil-dichtpapier To avoid direct contact between the combustion gasses and reduce peak pressure load, I give the cylinder-head a raised middle section that has a tight slide fit into...

An open injector works similar as the "spray cup" in the Brons engine patent. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brons

Mr Find Hansen made his injector "free floating" to avoid this problem. In one of his youtube videos he explains what this means. Basically only the tip is in contact and the stem is free over its entire length. Only the spring touches the other end. He clearly states that you need springs...

Bronze valve body and brazed stainless steel valve. Air tight straight after machining on the lathe. No lapping with polishing paste needed. Three more to go.

Hi, There are various boots in/around the Netherlands that still run this engine. One of them I use as a source for the measurements and photo's that I use during the build. Regards, Xander

Rocker arm stands finished

Interesting discussion as I'm currently building my first liquid cooled engine. It will run only a few hours/year so would be interesting to know what is the best solution (type of coolant and drain yes or no) given the combination of brass, steel, copper and bronze.

Layout of the engine to get a feeling of its size

Total indicated runout (TIR) well below 0.01 mm (half a thou in inch) after cutting out the 1st part of the main shaft.

After a break due to my father passing away, I started the crankshaft. Parts are finished, next is to glue them using Locyite 603, cross drill and press pins in.

Some extra info, I did soft solder the webs to the two pins (big end and crank shaft). Then drilled and pressed pins through the soldered assembly. Finally cut the excess material (2x from big end pin and the crank shaft in between the webs).

I found some fiber reinforced adhesive for stoves which is rated to 1250 degrees Celcius (2282 Fahrenheit). Will give this a try on some test pieces. Fibers are glass fibers, no asbestos. https://www.griffon.nl/nl/product.1234143

Brass crank webs with drill rod shafts works great. Advantage is that you only have to sawcut the drill rod, no turning needed.

Due to a design challenge, I cannot silversolder/braze a part in the exhaust. Any ideas on how hot the exhaust manifold of a low revving model engine like a Webster engine gets? Maybe I can soft solder or glue it with high temperature (250 degree Celcius / 482 degree Fahrenheid) silicone. It...

The knobs for the crankcase covers and the first cilinder head outside milled.

Give the ball a gentle wack with a hammer into the seat to form the seat. Then throw away that ball as it will be damaged and repace by a new ball. If possible (temperature and chemical properties of the fluid to be transported) use solid Viton balls.