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I thougt my envisioned setup for line boring the 2VD5 will be interesting, but you are king. 😀

I found a very nice YouTube movie on how to create a con-rod with a cast appearance build from bar stock. Based on that I made the following work flow picture:

I'm indeed aiming to get as close as possible to the look of the real one. In the design I try to use the same approach of the building blocks such to have functional bolt and studs in the correct places. Once it is a running engine I will add more "fake" details e.g. mimic all the remaining...

One year of progress. Had to learn some new techniques. When all continues to go so well, this engine will run in 1.5 to 2 years from now.

Great out of the box thinking. I have the book of Mr Kelly and once my 2 cylinder is finished, I want to build the snow engine. There is also some silver brazing in that engine. After hesitating for a long time, I tried a couple of silver brazing parts and now I'm addicted. It opens a new...

Gear layout design.

Mock-up of the crank case. Found a design mistake. Have to remove 3 mm (~0.12") of each plate in order to be able to finally mount the camshaft housing. All three plates are well within 0.05 mm (0.002") as they are milled in one machine step. To keep this level of accuracy, now each plate has...

Not this engine, but I build a similar (the one in my Avatar picture) which has a 1" piston and is running without any piston rings. Kept the diameter of the cast iron piston 0.01 mm (4 tenths in imperial) smaller than the steel cylinder. With some lubrication it really works well.

Nice work and very helpful insights for me that I can as I'm in the process of building my own 2-cylinder engine. Do you plan to make a chamfer to the side plates or a undercut to the bushings that hold the outer bearings? In the left picture it looks like these bushings are not flush with the...

Exhaust manifold silver brazed.

CNC milling the crankcase sides.

I go for 25 mm bore since I can easily buy 25 mm honed hydraulic cylinder tube and this is then ~1:8 to ~1:12 scale if I build replicas of old stationary and marine engines.

Great report and very nice engine

First frame rail finished. First Silver brazed the hot rolled steel for strength and then in a 2nd step added soft solder to form the fillets to give it a cast appearance.

How about the tool pressure since it is really a form tool rather than a single-point turning tool? Does it have the tendency to chatter and/or bend the valve stem?

Exhaust needed a tight bend, which is constructed from a OEM part and some tube which are brazed together as bending the tube was unsuccessful. Laying out the parts on a drawing which is printed on the correct scale of 1:9.2

Laying out the gears.

I wrote a building report that got published in the German magazine " Maschinen im Modellbau"

Rocker arm: brass strip with brazed hardened end pieces. The end pieces have a 1.5 mm slot in which the brass strip is inserted for maximum strength.

These are the valves just before brazing, fluxed and with smalll pieces of silver solder on top.