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Yes. And he can model an Ellwe. https://digilander.libero.it/liguori/ellwe.htm

The crankshaft base is the backbone that the 4x4 angle and bearing carrier end plates bolt to. The aluminum shoe bar supporting the engine will be replaced with some half inch steel stock as well as spacers under the rubber to gain clearance for a 4 in. steel flywheel. The heavier steel also...

What I do is use a rubber tip blow off nozzle set to low PSI on the air compressor to the spark plug hole. Turn over flywheel. You will know exactly when those valves open/ close and note any leakage. You may hear some piston ring pass by too but the valves hiss is a timed cycle event.

Are you checking for cylinder or porting leaks?

Luv your design and execution of components. That flywheel counterweight has that do the job roughness that just melts into a great presentation of your craftiness without the machine made perfectness. Someone needs to hand out scores and recognitions on this one! Minh is passing on know how...

The 20T MXL cam drive sprocket inboard on the flywheel end of crankshaft. Its belt has to rise and head 90 deg. out to the camshaft. A dual idler bracket gets this done. A couple of half in. dia. brass pulleys on eight in. rods provide a topside ride over of the belt. Some Delrin buttons...

The outboard bearing carriers are mounted in some galvanized eighth inch angle brackets. This not working for me. Has to be integrated with more into the four inch angle frame than just a pair of screws for a long pieced crankshaft. Looking into my scrap bin...... .....I find a short leg...

The crank webs of leaded steel are made by the pair. Quarter inch throw pins to a reamed hole thru. 5/16 CR shafting is straight knurled and pressed in after the part off. Pairs are marked with center punch for sequence and direction and reside between each main bearing. The #8 set screws...

The crankshaft base plate. Con rod centerlines and the two cross milled slots for the main bearings. Brass stock for these bearings. A pair of holes drilled and threaded 6-32 adjacent to the bore hole thru. Caps are sawed off and the cut is milled flat. The threads drilled out of the...

On my 4x4 inch aluminum angle, my main frame piece. Setting up the bore centerlines for 3 cylinders. The hole thru is liner diameter+ to pass through. Parting off the DOM cylinder liners. One inch bores. The radiators with the liners into the frame....... ..........and locked to the...

I have been using 12L14 steel for valves , shafting, crank webs and flywheels for the steel parts on my engines for about three years now. Cuts as clean as brass and the material seems easier and less stressful for the mini lathe and mini mill tooling and components.

Moving parts around to gain a lower profile stance on a vertical engine. THREE BELOW's story coming this weekend! 🙂

I would say no based on the total flat surface area of a scale model where a change in material would not mater. An O-ring would have been a success between two head bolts and cylinder but for the open valve port pathway. The solution is still a more fasteners mod.

I would address the shortfall in the two head bolt design and add a third bolt around the cylinder and a couple of #6 socket heads each side of the valve cutout. That will end the issue of spreading the torque an inch away from the fastener.

The best I've done with the mini mill/lathe chucks is about a #50 drill for carb needle and seat.

Get yourself a pin vice with a metal straight shank and chuck it up in the Jacobs.

If dissatisfied with a part, I think of salvage and rework first. Can I mod and come out OK for its use and purpose? Or how bout relocating a mounted item or cheating a dimension. Over or under size a fixed or moving piece. I have those liberties as my engines are not built to a plan but wild...

The near term quick development of electric vehicles, most likely because our carbon footprint is being used by nature to stomp us down, will make a progressive advancement by this familiar phrase: "Two steps forward and one step back". Here is an example this month of the one step back...

Thanks HMEL, of course appropriate applications. As such.... Loctite products are used on plastics and ferrous and non-ferrous metals. plastics, porous and non porous organics and synthetics without issues.

Obvious issue with obvious solutions. Don't go inventing causes here. Loctite products are petro plastics and do not induce corrosion. You need to use engine coolant over cast iron and/ or steel cylinder liners. You can spay paint the cylinders in contact with the coolant.