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Foketry: It looks like the casting for the top half of the crankcase cleaned up fairly well when you machined it. There's a couple of spots that look a little iffy, but some JB Weld would fix them right up. In that last photo, it almost looks like the right-hand bank of cylinders has sleeves...

Ved: Yup, it's marketing BS alright. I believe that in order to get the most IMPRESSIVE numbers they'll use the motor's current values at startup to calculate the HP. A motor typically pulls 6 times its' normal full load amps during the split second that it's not turning. Now I ask ya...

George: If possible, I'd also like the files to the 289, I've always loved that engine. They are tough little things, seems like you aren't able to beat them to death with a stick. Back in my younger and stupider days I started putting a 289 in a Datsun PL620 pickup. Then I saw a blown...

Does visually acceptable mean it looks good from the outside, but not so much from the inside? Were the welds structurally acceptable to you?

You don't happen to have any more pictures of machining the head do you? From what I can see in the photo above, that was no easy task. Don

Yeah Basil, a full sized thin wall gets real thin at that scale.

Basil: It looks like you had a little problem with the print around part of what looks to be the plug openings? Any ideas what happened there? Don

Foketry: Thanks for the information, keep it coming. Don

That's a GREAT looking engine George. The 289 always has always been my favorite engine. Don

Foketry: Another quick question. You provided 2 links to products, which product did you use when you coated the engine block parts? The Raysin 200, or the Kera-flott? Don P.S. - Pouring with the mold in a container of sand is a good idea, as long as the sand is dry.

Foketry: When you burn-out these parts, could you detail your burn-out procedure? What do you use for a burn-out oven, temperatures used, ramp-times, burn-out time, do you let the mold cool before you pour, that kind of information? From the results that you get, with the relatively simple...

What is the ceramic powder that you use to for the initial ceramic shell? Waiting to see what the next step will be. You've either got a VERY steady hand while pouring or you are going to add some sort of pouring basin to make it easier too hit those sprues.

Neat idea, I'll have to remember that one. Don

Foketry: In Post #120, in your picture labeled "the core", the sodium silicate core and the 3D printed pattern appear to be the same height. If they were the same height, how did you keep the core centered in the mold? Don

Foketry: A couple of questions about your latest casting: 1) Did you use the same 3D print to make both the core print and the sand mold? 2) What layer thickness did you print this at? Don

Bill: When I first designed the DC airlock, it was designed around bit and pieces that I had on hand. i.e.... 8mm skateboard bearings, 5/16" shaft, 20RPM 12VDC gearmotor, and parts that I could 3D print. A BBQ rotisserie may have worked, but I didn't have one. The square BBQ spit would have...

Many years ago when I worked at Sundstrand in Ames, I had to rewire the controls on one of the lapping tables in the "Seal Room". It was a just a LITTLE bit bigger than yours but it did the same type of work. Did you use a new brake disc when you built yours, or just re-surface an old one? Don

No they are not. But then again, we aren't trying to build engines that will run for thousands of hours either. Don

Foketry: In your Step 5 description you say that the ring is turned to the exact same OD as the honed ID of the cylinder - with no space in the cut. Does this mean you won't have any ring gap? If so, what's going to happen as the ring heats up? Don

Pat: So far my 3D printed parts are used directly, not as patterns. My 1.03 scaling factor is just to get the finished part accurate to the dimensions of the 3D model. I recently purchased a non-working electric jeweler's furnace and got it working. I do intend to cast some small engine...