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Thank's again Jason. It still seems to be in a mess.

Thank's Jason. I forgot to add "workshop" to the title. I like to have a look now and then to if it has been improved since the update. F5 has no effect.

Has the above forum packed in? There were no new posts yesterday, or today.

My prefered method with my Ender3 is to print a part at 0.2 layer height, scrape the surface fairly smooth with small, sharp tools (stainless steel dentists picks, poor quality but cheap), sand the print using a modified electric toothbrush as a sander, dust off and fill with polyester car...

Hi Don. Just found this thread in the listing and I'm not sure if I replied to it or not. I've been using my resin printer with water washable resin for over a year now. The smell is almost non-existant. I use IPA to wipe the FEP film, and water to wash the print. The IPA is a much stronger...

Thanks Scott. I have re-installed SE 2024 and will have a go. I thought I would like the synchronus enviroment because I am used to DesignSpark Mechanical which uses something similar, But I prefer ordered too. Lee

I would like to install SE community edition 2021 on a second computer, but I have lost (deleted!) the installation file. SE has moved on to edition 2024, it's not very friendly. Any ideas? I have searched the net and Siemans website, but no luck. Lee

When I am unsure if a pattern will pull cleanly from the sand, I make a sand mould in CAD, subtract the pattern from it, and then see if I can move the pattern out of the mould. All in CAD. It's helped me quite a bit.

That flywheel is better than any 3D print I've produced, including resin.

Interesting comment about a CNC gantry router, what software would you use with that? Those wooden patterns are great!

I read somewhere that the FORD logo Henry Ford used on his cars wasn't his signature, but a commercially available font. Perhaps the Monitor logo also used a commercial font? You might find a match by searching for fonts from that era. Personally I don't think you need to search for anything...

In the early days of my casting attempts, I used to harden my sodium silicate cores with bicarb and vinegar in a container that kept the cores away from the liquid. Perhaps the co2 produced was weaker, giving me very good cores. When I switched to small bottles of co2 I must have used too much...

The photo shows one of my compost bins in front of my gazebo. It had been blown there by the recent high winds from 40 feet away. It missed the flower pots cemented to the weak capping stones by a very small margin.

My main mistake (fault) is lack of patience. When I made a core, either by using sodium silicate and sand, or epoxy resin and sand, I was in too much of a hurry to use them. I should have done what you did, leave them alone for a day or so, or put the ss cores in an oven. Another branch of my...

Reading this thread makes me realise how many mistakes I made when making cores. Many thanks.

Good luck!

I have a Dremel 225 flexible drive. I have no idea if it is the same though.

I had trouble getting draft on a logo once (once?!) so I extruded it onto the surface with no draft, 3D printed it and used Milliput epoxy putty to create the fillet required. I shaped the end of a small paint brush to get the fillet shape. It took a while, but it worked. I could only fillet a...

I forgot one very important step in my description of creating a logo. Inkscape. I would use your photo, crop it, convert to black and white (grayscale) and then use inkscape to trace the outline of the bitmap and convert it into a STEP file. Much better than trying to draw around something like...

I would be tempted to make the Monitor logo part of the 3D print. I have done this with software as simple as Designspark Mechanical, and as complex as Solidedge. DS needed a bit more work than SE. With DS I had to scan the logo, import the image into FreeCAD and draw round the text, save it as...