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Pistons The pistons were made 0.002 under the bore as the plans suggested. The bores ended up a few tenths different as did the pistons, so the sets were punch marked to be a proper fit during reassembly time. started by making a 1 inch split sleeve to avoid marring the finish as I flipped the...

Connecting Rods The book calls for silver brazed assemblies here instead of a billet. It also takes advantage of dissimilar metal sliding friction and suggests cast iron for the big and little ends. I had a few scrap wafer valve castings that had really seasoned gray cast that machines well for...

Good eye Xander, I'm still awaiting the flat head screws to secure those bearing holders, so they look worse than I hoped them to be in that picture. I went ahead and undercut the inside corners as you suggested to be sure. Thank you!

Crankshaft-Center Bearing Had a 1.75" OD slice of brass in the drawer that was used for the center bearing. I wanted to do like Sprocket did and make a groove so the bearing would be held captive in the center web. Started by cutting it roughly in half, machining the halves flat and soldering...

Thank you Vietti, it turned out okay I guess. It cleaned up nicely, and I removed most of the excess brazing carefully with swiss files and emery cloth while held in the lathe. I also rounded the ends of the throws. However the heat bowed the rotating assembly. I measured 0.004" total indicated...

Crankshaft This went well after re-reading very helpful advice from sprocket and others on this forum. The drawings also showed the outer dimensions of the drill rod reduced to allow better silver braze penetration and perhaps offset growth after heating. Dressed the 7/16" and 3/8" drill rod...

Crankcase Continued machining the crankcase assembly by boring the opposite side crankshaft bearing support. Then flipped the part to drill and bore the cylinder sleeves. I have gotten fairly complacent touching off each end and using the DRO's centering function instead of doing the math with...

I have machined all the crankshafts from one piece because I thought drill rod would harden after brazing and I wouldn't be able to machine afterwards. What's the secret? Do you anneal it again?

thank you for the comments and questions Before I could call the cylinders complete, I though I should make the bronze valve cages and drill the remaining holes and tappings. I chose to make the valve cages in one setup to maintain concentricity to the valve guide. I liked how the plan called...

I did not attempt to braze the cylinder sleeve which is the only 1214L part. The sleeve is held in the cylinder jacket with green Loctite. All of the parts I brazed are regular carbon steel. 1018 CRS for the crankcases and A106 B seamless pipe for the cylinder jackets. The valve block was hot...

Gear Calculations my plan is to make the cam and crank gears using a set of 48 diametral pitch (DP) cutters that I already made. Over coffee I did some "maths" and could use a peer check please. All dimensions are inches. Doug Kelley's plan uses Boston Gear set: 32DP, 80T with 2.5 PD and 32dP...

Thank you for the "HEADs up" :p would not have caught that myself unless I laid it out using CAD. I'm going to change the radius from 0.5 to 0.516 and the 1.219 to 1.235 so the valves don't hit. Did you purchase the spark plugs, or make your own?

cylinder fabrication continued I was very concerned about snapping a small tap or drill bit off in the cylinders and used copious amounts of slippery tap magic. All was going very well and I was deburring the holes and smoothing over the edges when the assembly slipped out of my hands and...

thank you minh-thanh. I am familiar with what you are saying... see below for my learning experience with ribbon-solder

Hi Colin, yes I will be making my own. I have a full set of shop made 48DP gear cutters so I will likely have to modify dimensions to suit. Miss google-search told me that the H3280 hub projection is 0.38" (likely 0.375"). They are listed at well over $100 :oops::oops::oops: please keep me...

Thank you for the ignition help and compliments and likes. Glad to have the company for this build. Cylinder Sleeves I set up and started to center drill the various 10,000 holes in the top of the cylinder and had to stop when I noticed how close they would be to breaking through into the...

Thank you for the very good advice and tips on how to shorten the spark plug leads I found this version online for a very reasonable cost. Good to sort this out ahead of time... :rolleyes...

Cylinder fabrication continued... Luckily I had some ribbon solder strips that a retired tool & die maker gave me. First I made all the mounting pads and valve bodies using the mill and a boring head. The valve bodies were a hole split in half after drilling and boring; the locating pads were...

Hi Pete! Glad that this is useful to you. It looks to be a very good build and terrific plans and notes to go by. I will likely need help with the ignition when it comes time for that as it references a system that is no longer available (Roy retired). I am getting used to brazing with the new...

continuing cylinder water jackets.... Set up on an expandable 1" mandrel and trimmed all four ends to dimensions while cleaning up the excess brazing. Also radiused the step to make it look more "cast-like." While I was boring the ID to accept the sleeves, I realized that I should make up a...