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Fit a decent quality belt...looks like the belt came from mainland China with the rest of it. or...back off on the cuts (which amount you do not say)...it's a mini lathe afterall.

Most of the links that led to his books etc. are long dead....... you could try searching Google on model engine or engineering forums /magazine archives.

Think you'll find most of his stuff is covered in his books which would be copyrighted for certain.

That was the brand of the ones I gave away as junk. Problem as with many things , some wouldn't know the difference.

Same here....also, if doing bearing recess measurement to do it with guage vertical. One will notice that good quality telescoping gauge, such as Moore and Wright (original) has just one leg sprung. That plus the "nip" required to lock the guage in the bore is ever-so-light as compared to many...

Included here is also a complete circuit from way back when....(note 6V)........can either use hall effect or points (spark fires when points close).

As below..........

Not if one uses a simple transistor inverter on the signal from the points.

Most domestic sewing machine motors, although series type, do not have the grunt to be useful. Especially when one needs to have high spindle speeds as they simply bog down under load and one cannot get enough belt tension to avoid slipping. Last time I looked they were rated around 70w. There...

Doesn't sound all that fantastic to me. Too many variables to determine just what but I'd tend to start with why the exhaust sounds like someone pouring water down a large long pipe.

There always has to be one............. Flights to the moon require some mod as well...this has nothing to do with fuel pumps or ignition timing running off intermediate gears. Never seen intermediate gears use for that purpose anyhow. Grow up.

Added note, if using intermediate gears, for example overhead cam a long way from the crankshaft, the number of teeth on the "intermediates" has no effect i.e. does not matter.

Wet finger over the plug hole seems to work in many instances.

Best way to secure a flywheel is to use a reverse cone....a-la Super Tigre prop driver.

One still requires a wallop of tension using synchronous belts otherwise, they too will jump the "cogs". Next time I will be using gears.

Dare I say, without being too outlandish, more money than sense. I've used synchronous pulleys and belts from China with zero complaints. Cost of two pulleys and belt fot the new starter for the boat was around AUD$30 including delivery.

Where the starter is concealed in the box below the engine, all well and good. When we build the engines with an intergral starter, we use the r/c model aircraft brushless motors. I built up a control board using either Arduino pro mini or ATtiny85 to take care of all the necessary configuration...

They don't have the "guts" to drive a plug under compression successfully.

Google is great for those that have no idea isn't it??? Look it up, seeing you seem to know it all. Either way, doesn't cahnge the fact that "stainless" were never used, in bearings or the valves or any other part of the engines. Magnum being an elcheapo knock off, surprised it has any usable...

I'd really like to see you be able to measure that.........