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Good advice but it appears you wasted your time.

You can calculate quite easily.....https://www.omnicalculator.com/physics/mass-moment-of-inertia

Bigger flywheel will be an advantage.

Still pencil scale drawing, measurements (all) and process this end, so don't end up turning away a piece one is meant to hold the job by. Even using drawings from others I tend to write my own measurements as mistakes can come up on drawings , and I rarely ever follow the plan to a tee.

Could try pop-pop engine, sterling engine, steam engine, many run on a candle or external heat source.

Actually they can and do contain magnesium. Where do you think the term " mag wheels" came from? We have also come across alloy containing magnesium in motorcycle engine crankcase. Point being, it's not all " she'll be right bloke". Personally I couldn't care less what you think is ok or what...

Throw some in a crusible with enough heat or existing molten metal and you'll have glorious fireworks. Think you need to be responsible here and show others who have no idea, that adding magnesium content can be rather dangerous instead of passing it off as " ah....no worries bloke, I do it all...

I'd tend to be more than hesitant at using anything from car rims given the possibility of them containing magnesium. Why, I'll let you all find out for yourselves....suffice to say, rather spectular fireworks at time of meltdown.

That last image raises many many questions......

Best to do some drawings. Positioning of holes become paramount especially with 4 cylinders. .......and there are plenty which you do not want to intersect. ......and then there are those which must end up in the correct place starting from some obscure angle.

Obviously you have never checked the price they charge for these "gold trinkets". I have and left it on their shelf.

We get smooth as finish...use dry and very fine sand, ours is like powder.

Possible you can show some details on the ignition system "you built"......include any circuit diagram "you used" and what power supply "you used> Also details on the parts used.

In a conventional manner yes, but............. 1. .......A Ford Falcon (2002 to 2005....possibly others as well ) BA coil of the OTP type will work with points, condenser as normal and 1 x 18650 3v7 Li-ion cell. 2. .......If it is a GY-6 coil from a pocket rocket (mini) motorcycle there is a...

Doesn't make a scrap of difference. Rotate part 180 degrees, same same.

Well you can call it whatever you like, but fact remains if it blows up for whatever reason, or, if someone observes it under steam power without the relevant documents, it can/will be costly. That IS a fact so might be a good idea to keep your half smart comments to yourself in future.

Just a quick heads up......building of any steam engine in Aus o.k. but the running (on steam) comes under rather intensive legal requirements. Many have given it away for that reason.

Perhaps you would like to elaborate on this as to why any modern day computer system or microcontroller could not be adapted to suit whatever the previous application was and possibly do a better job much more quickly.

No, you've done your dash...next time , sharp tools and SLOOOOWLY with pressure.

Suggest possible use of "Scotchcast" kit resin. It's available in a range of sizes and has a reasonably high dielectric strength as well as physical strength. Normally used to fill the mould around underground cable repair/joints.