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Don't know why I never found this thread until now, but I'm glad I found it. I USED to think that I was the only one with a shop that has almost every flat surface covered in stuff. And not just any old stuff, it's important project stuff. I can usually find a square foot or two to work on...

Hot water heating systems or in your case that's more likely to be chilled water systems, would have similar problems. You might check with Heat-Ventilating-Air-Conditioning companies in your area to see what they would recommend.

If by chance there's any leftovers, let me know. I live in NE Iowa and could easily do a day-trip out that way.

When you say 2mm wall thickness, does that include the top and the bottom? My slicer has separate settings for perimeter walls, and the top/bottom. When I have a print that needs to take a beating, I never go below 40% infill. When watching the printing of parts with various infill...

The wall thickness MIGHT have survived if it had more infill backing it up. How thick were the perimeter walls, the top, and the bottom? What type of an infill pattern was used? It looks like it could have been rectilinear which would have good adhesion between layers where they cross, but...

Congratulations on your first 3D printer??? Welcome to the nut-house/rabbit hole? 3D printers should all come with an "Abandon all HOPE ye who push the start button" warning label. I'd have 3 warning labels now. If you are saying, like I think you are, that Layer 1 when printed is wider than...

"I had to look up VWPBL ..." Don't feel bad about that Andy, I had to look it up too.

So I take it that you gentlemen have no qualms about watching videos of the guys doing aluminum castings of fire ant nests? That is, other than the fact they're pouring molten metal into a hole in the ground?

Anybody else on here visit thehomefoundry.org? I haven't been able get access to that site since the first of the year. I keep getting a server timeout error, I'll try later tonight to see if I can get on-line. Hopefully it's something simple like there been a tremendous up-swing in the...

Jasonb: This might help: rcgroups.com This is a link to the RC Groups sub-forum on 3D printed planes. In particular, this is a "sticky" thread on CAD and Slicer techniques. You might also want to search through the 3D Printed Planes sub-forum, because I can remember several discussions on...

Jacob: Might I suggest that you also post this over on thehomefoundry.org in the Lost PLA forum? This is the first time I've seen anybody suggesting using the light-weight PLA in this application. 3D printed RC planes yes, casting - you're the first I know of. Don

Yes the slicer generates the Gcode for the printer. If you think about the math involved in slicing a solid object into a gazillion layers, then calculating the perimeter paths for that object, then calculating the interior fill paths, then optimizing all that crap because EVERYBODY wants to...

I don't think there is any one definitive standard for drawing files, at least I haven't seen any. The STEP is pretty close, but even that appears to have multiple standards, ISO-STEP, CAD-STEP, and other flavors... Even the DXF format has changed over the years, and the newer DXF formats are...

File compatibility between CAD programs can be problematic at times, because not everybody plays well together. For 2D drawings MOST software packages will import and export DXF files, that's Drawing eXchange Format files. AutoCAD and its' clones will use a DWG file-type as their basic drawing...

Don't know if I would leave it on the build plate for an extended period, might be harder to get it off the plate after that. Maybe try to take the print and the supports off the plate in one piece, and then be sure to set that on a flat surface.

I think that can be a feature of all resins. There is some speculation that the print needs to be supported, even after the initial UV curing, because the interior of the print in not fully cured yet. The interior of the print is still relatively soft and will want to sag to follow the...

Quite true. But some people, and I not gonna name fingers or point names - because I'd be among them, just hate post-processing.

About the only PLA solvent bonder that I'm willing to use is Weldon, #3, #4, or #16 - they seem to be the least toxic. (Weldon #3 and #4 are the water thin versions, while #16 is a thicker tube type glue.) I'm not at home right now, but the SDS sheets are available online. It doesn't seem too...

Regarding vapor smoothing PLA, the solvents that you have to use are pretty nasty so you really DON'T want to be around the fumes any more than you have to. It can be done, but unless I had a lab grade fume hood, I wouldn't want to try it.

There are a variety of what are effectively high-build primers available in both polyesters and epoxies, these give you the highest build. These will do an admirable job of leveling the layered playing field caused by a filament 3D printer. They'll add to the highs, and some of that high will...