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Tappet guides are made from aluminium and tappets are from steel. Bronze bushes in the end covers locate into the cam tunnel and support the camshaft.

The end covers house the ballraces at either end of the crankshaft. There is also a plain bearing at the centre. The rear cover also houses the cam drive gears.

The upper crankcase is a little more complex, with a lot of bores and internal machining. Upper and lower halves were screwed together to finish the front and rear bores which locate the end covers.

The lower crankcase is fairly simple. Fins in the underside were cut with a slitting saw.

This is a mostly retrospective build thread, as I started in March and the engine is now complete. I detailed the build on the Whittle V8 group here: [email protected] | Topics I have built the engine mostly to Eric Whittles drawings, but with a few variations of my own. The crankcases start...

Another option: I have made a distributor cap by moulding two pack resin. I made a two part mould from aluminium. The mould supports all the conductors in place and the resin is poured over them and then the mould is closed. I made the first one in clear resin, so I could check for any errant...

It's the deepest worry of the 10T gear...

Nice work Ray. I doubt you will have any problems with side loading of the valves. The valve train forces in model engines are very low compared to larger engines, because the valve weight is small and you don't need much spring force to close them. Also worth noting that the larger the diameter...

Lars, there is nothing different about building a radial engine. The parts are in different places, but otherwise the important machining is the same as any other engine. I have nearly finished a Whittle V8, a 10cc air-cooled engine which I intend to put into a flying model. I have also built a...

Hello Lars and welcome to the forum. It sounds like you have followed a very similar path in life to myself. I am now 60 years old and I sold the aeroplane 2 years ago! In place of that, I fly models, so that gives a purpose to my small engines.

My suggestion is to photocopy the drawings from the book. If you have a tablet, you can even use that instead of paper copies.

I have a copy of Bentley BR2 by L.K. Blackmore. My copy has all the drawings reproduced within its pages. Even when I do have proper drawings, I don't use them in the workshop. I make a convenient A4 copy of the specific component I intend to machine, or even just the detail for the days...

I use the point of a centre drill for spotting. The point is 118 or 120 degrees and the body of the centre drill makes it very stiff. I don't centre punch. I align the point of the spinning centre drill with the scribed mark and touch on, just enough to make a mark, then adjust as necessary...

Thanks for the review, Mike. I also attended the show on Saturday. I would agree with all the points you made, but I would also add that there is another aspect to theses events and that is simply the opportunity to chat with a multitude of like minded individuals. I spent most of my time there...

I've also made a small bearing puller for exactly the same purpose. Turn the end of a convenient piece of steel bar to a close fit in the bearing bore and drill through to a convenient tapping size. Tap with a taper tap from the other end of the bar, so that the point of the tap just arrives at...

Yes, I have F360 on a commercial license.

It makes my Whittle V8 look huge!

Peter, if you do want to go ahead and create a set of drawings to sell, I could help by modelling and drawing your design in CAD. I'm a semi retired design engineer. I'm currently building a Whittle V8 and the first thing I did when I received the drawings was to model the entire engine in CAD...

Hi k2, I regularly climb mill on my (manual) machine. I just nip the gib clamps enough to prevent the cutting load from snatching the job. Climb milling generally gives a better finish than upcut milling. Also, because the cutting load is pushing the tool away from the job, it gives a more...

Full size guidelines, equally applicable to models, are 150C max for aluminium heads, 180C max for iron. As Brian says, small engines tend to run cooler, due to the scaled ratios between surface area and volume. 90 to 100C is a good place to be.