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Did send a private message , twice . Never got a reply

Same here .

Propane/butane will have the advantage that it's already a gas , not an atomised or vaporised liquid . So all problems of running lean when cold , fuel condensing , wet spark plugs etc will be gone . A needle valve in the intake from a small torch fi will be all you need to experiment . No...

Still , there will be far more with nothing at all in their brains ...; :)

love it when people are willing to share their knowledge

Please do , I'm always interested how others approach this . @jquevedo what are the two brass pipes for on the side view ? Coolant maybe

Now that sounds familiar :)

The pins are a press fit in the arms and they pivot in the frame ? I thought it would be the other way around . How about pressing / bolting / loctiteing the pins in the frame . I would thread them , add a small shoulder and loctite them in place . And th use an extended bronze bushing in the...

Yes the valves are vacuum operated , so each time the intake valve opens there ought to be a power stroke . But that doesn't always seem to happen so I thought it was misfiring from time to time . Anyway , it's a runner wich is an achievement in itself .

I found another beautifull build of this little engine on yt . Not the pendergrast , the builder says it's a gingery . But still , a nice runner , altough I think it misfires on occasion . Sounds a bit like a hit'n miss .

There are thougts against using an E motor to run in the rings . The pressure of the combustion should seat and wear in the rings . Offcourse if there's no combustion possible due to ring leakage .... I've also been told by a professional engine rebuilder that changing rings without honing...

Sweet , I'll be building one for sure . Greg if I'm not mistaking you can put all the files in a single zip and then just add it to post like you did with the drawing above . More experianced users correct me if i'm wrong please . pat

It's like an opposed piston engine . That is why it's such a deep bore . Nice engine with the brass cilinders .

a bell chuck in the steady rest ...... that ought to work . good thinking !

btw what would happen if I don't sleeve and just run it in the aluminium cilinder . Won't last long , but it's not supposed to run every day either . The question is how long would it last . That is offcourse assuming it will ever run .

That is what ken is building if I'm not mistaking . The piece of copper on the right seems to be a coolant tank .

Thx for all the replies . @WOB I don't have any 12L14 . Wel maybe I do , but I don't know what I have . I have loaded a trailer full of bar stock once , all from a company that went broke . But sadly it is all unknown material . I could offcourse try something that machines nicely and hope for...

So I need to bore a 1-3/4 by 2.5" ( 64*45mm) aluminium block with a length of 6" ( 150mm) . Bore needs to be parallel to at least one surface , altough that could be milled later on . Bore diam would be 1.40" ( 36mm ) . As this will be a cilinder for a gas engine , some degree of acuracy is...

Now I understand what the function is of that extra central connecting rod . It actuates the valves . Wonder if this can be added somehow to the other designs out there thx for the vid .

The pendergast design is even bigger . 1.25" od on the pistons .