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  1. CFLBob

    Another Rupnow 1 by 1

    Same answer: "The holiday preparations here have overtaken the work in the shop and I haven't spent a minute on it since the original post. "
  2. CFLBob

    Another Rupnow 1 by 1

    The holiday preparations here have overtaken the work in the shop and I haven't spent a minute on it since the original post. I can see or feel no looseness in the bearings, although I haven't tried to measure it. My lathe is turning six years old in January, so it's not that old and gets...
  3. CFLBob

    Another Rupnow 1 by 1

    Sorry, Minh Thanh The cylinder is going to be 2-3/8" long when it's finished. The column that says outer end is where the cylinder head sits, the very top of travel. The 2" deep in cylinder isn't really 2". It's more like 1.6" to 1.7" mostly because my telescoping gauge won't reach all...
  4. CFLBob

    Another Rupnow 1 by 1

    Most accurate answer: I don't know. I had chores to do yesterday and didn't work on it, but here's every measurement.
  5. CFLBob

    Another Rupnow 1 by 1

    Easy one first, no 1" drill rod. On withdrawing the cutter: obligatory picture of the lathe: When power feed is engaged, the handles on the compound (7) and the cross slide (5) do not get touched. I taped those in position to keep them from loosening themselves back when cutting the points...
  6. CFLBob

    Another Rupnow 1 by 1

    This thread got very busy as the day went by. @werowance Yes, it does help. I think people who tend to say, "meh ... close enough" all the time don't take on machining as hobby, and I can see I might be over analyzing this condition. The micrometer is new and seems decent. The anvils are...
  7. CFLBob

    Another Rupnow 1 by 1

    I cut it with a boring bar that has a carbide insert. It cuts at a relatively small point; I mean the contact in the telescoping gauge has to be 10 times the width of the cutting point so it's not like one measurement is in a valley and the next measurement is on a peak. They're all over a...
  8. CFLBob

    Another Rupnow 1 by 1

    Statistics is practically my middle name, but I'm not comfortable using them here. Let me show you why. Two batches of ID measurements at the non-chuck end of the cylinder Test 1 0.9510 0.9510 0.9508 0.9509 Test 2 0.9497 0.9499 0.9495 0.9499 Those are two different populations. The...
  9. CFLBob

    Another Rupnow 1 by 1

    I think my problem is more fundamental. I can't measure worth a flip. I just took 20 measurements of the inside diameter of both ends of the bore. There's some sort of taper there, wider at the bottom of the cylinder (lathe chuck end) than the other end, but my measurements are all over...
  10. CFLBob

    Another Rupnow 1 by 1

    My lathe is mounted on a pair of accessory cabinets that were intended for it. I've noticed that at certain RPMs, it will rattle more, as if the cabinets are going through some sort of resonance. Above or below that speed range, no rattle or perceptible movement. I have a shop crane and...
  11. CFLBob

    Another Rupnow 1 by 1

    I'm still doing rough shaping, .050 short of final size, so I haven't been doing that yet, but I'm with you on that.
  12. CFLBob

    Another Rupnow 1 by 1

    Because of the way the cylinder is mounted in the lathe, if anything, it's wider at the bottom - which is the farthest from the point where I set the diameter. That's ideal, because if it expands a little at the top, then it becomes less tapered (or not tapered), and yet it's easier to get the...
  13. CFLBob

    Horizontal Air Cooled Engine

    Yay!!
  14. CFLBob

    Another Rupnow 1 by 1

    Isn't that what my piston is for? Kind of joking, but as I understand it, the usual work flow is to make the cylinder first so that I can fit the piston to the engine. It doesn't matter if my cylinder is a a few thou oversized or undersized as long as the piston fits it. It needs to be...
  15. CFLBob

    Another Rupnow 1 by 1

    Thanks for the link. Got busy and haven't watched it yet, but will watch it in the morning. I enlarged my cylinder bore to 0.950 this afternoon, and will use a few more passes for the last of it. I only measured the ID by using a telescoping ID gauge and it didn't look like it had any taper...
  16. CFLBob

    Model Engine Ignitions

    I think that can be set by the person installing it. We have the ability to see which state the engine is in, so we put the spark plug out where we can see it, and position the sensor such that it fires at the end of the proper stroke. I was surprised when I bought my electronic ignition for...
  17. CFLBob

    Another Rupnow 1 by 1

    K2 - I honestly don't know how to do that. When I first got the lathe (2014), I put a live center in the tail stock and a dead center in the head stock, then verified they were actually point to point. That's the only test I've done. I regularly use a dial indicator to minimize runout in...
  18. CFLBob

    Model Engine Ignitions

    After I posted that, I started to wonder if that would be useful in an ignition. The difference is that we're dealing with short pulses and high voltages in electronic ignitions and every time I've used that circuit was for square waves that were on half the time (like in the figure I got...
  19. CFLBob

    Another Rupnow 1 by 1

    The start over has been in progress since last Tuesday. This time I squared the blank to 1.80" on a side (don't recall how different they were, but it was under .005"), and then took it to the lathe to turn it into a cylinder. With the sides of the block 1.80" and the desired diameter of the...
  20. CFLBob

    Model Engine Ignitions

    "The OP would like to invent a hall-triggered system that only fires once per 2 revolutions of the flywheel. A hall sensor on the flywheel can give good resolution for spark timing, but opens (briefly) on every revolution, and OP would like to cancel one of those. " I've been kind of...
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