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You have seen correctly, both the right and left banks have sleeves, 7075 aluminum to avoid permanent deformation on the 2 most stressed banks. The length of the coupling between cylinder and cylinder seat is only 9 mm, I could not increase it, the cylinders inclined 40 degrees touch the central...

First crankshaft and connecting rod assembly test to understand if everything rotates, if all the holes match.

The fixing holes of the remaining 12 cylinders The holes of the 6 central cylinders had already been made without rotary table, this plane is parallel to the base of the engine block . Using the CNC rotary table I first milled the 3 planes, again the central one and then the 2 lateral ones at 40...

Boring of cylinder seats on rotary CNC 4th axis

Boring of bushing seats for crankshaft I have built a boring bar that is more than twice the length of the engine block to carry out this machining on the lathe. I also had to build a fixing base for the motor block on the lathe carriage, the seats for cylinders at the ends of the engine block...

The surface is not perfect but I have foreseen a machining allowance of 2 mm, when everything is milled it should improve and have no problems of leakage or mechanical strength . The oil cover needs a file finish. If I encounter any quality problems, I will remake these pieces. My work is free...

Aluminum castings of the engine block (lost PLA) the engine block is made up of 2 parts, the upper one where the cylinders are housed and the lower one that supports the crankshaft While the plaster was still hot, about 400 degrees C, I poured the molten aluminum, to be safe I put the plaster...

Next time I try with the plaster blocks still wet , i think it can work, thanks for the advice

the kiln at 250 degrees C and and the PLA is melting

Lost PLA, my kiln and the burn / vaporization phases reading Dragondark's post # 10 post referring to M-5 engine, to automate the process I built an electronic Kiln controller, based on Arduino https://create.arduino.cc/projecthub/MrRoboto19/electric-kiln-controller-f5c633 the first tests on...

I use a ceramic kiln that can reach up to 1,100 degrees C, the plaster-ceramic block must remain 1-2 days at room temperature to dry when I create the plaster blocks I use aluminum containers for food, of various sizes, also cut and glued together The plaster- ceramic is heated in 3 stages: 100...

I prefer Kera flott

the ceramic powder solidifies in 20-30 minutes generating heat , after which you can make another layer, it does not need to be perfectly dry, rather it is better that it remains wet, the layers stick better to each other.

https://amzn.eu/d/3PfYZr6 https://amzn.eu/d/fXZhwKX I have tried both of these powders. The second seems to me to be more resistant to high temperatures, 500 C, with fewer cracks, but for a correct comparison it would be necessary to try both on the same piece with the same temperatures,and v...

I coated the 2 PLA models with several layers of ceramic I use the ceramic powder, water and with a brush I deposit the ceramic on the model to form a layer of 5-10 mm. This requires at least 4-6 layers, allowing the ceramic to dry and harden for each layer before depositing the next layer...

Same thing for the lower part of the engine block

I increased the models by 1.3% because of the shrinkage of the aluminum , using PLA The additional orange parts are the channels for letting out the molten PLA and for pouring the aluminum into the plaster, once all the PLA has evaporated or burned. Of course the models are almost empty inside...

Lost PLA, aluminum engine block I 3D printed the 2 parts of the engine block, the upper part that houses the 16 cylinders and the crankshaft and the lower part that holds the crankshaft and oil.

It is not seen in the photo but under the core, during the hardening with CO2 I put 3 self-tapping screws. Through these 3 screws protruding for half of their length ,I fixed the core to the petrobond inside the alluminium cope

I am undecided whether to polish or sandblast the cone, I will decide in the final assembly stages to give a good look to the whole engine