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Now for the next part reasonably straight forward, the Guide bar bracket first skimmed the sides to get a parallel then was able to hold lightly in the mill vice to machine to thickness worked well then drill and ream the 4 holes. I drew it up in AutoCAD and produced a program to machine the...

Thanks again already corrected this mistake on the drawings 1st one made as per the drawings 2nd one as you said 7 1/4 " Thanks again

Hi Steamingandy I agree with your observations I have not fastened things yet I looked at that very aspect and thought the same thing and I have a second reversing shaft made which has 1 1/8 of thread if required. I like suggestions from readers of this blog if they see things to make my life...

More progress Now for what I consider the hardest part on this model. The reversing screw the drawing calls for 3/16 20TPI 2 start thread. I gave this plenty of thought and decided I would make this by making a tap to produce the nut then screw cut the thread on the shaft using the nut as a...

Hi Again Next parts the drag links 6 off required pretty straight forward to make I used key steel and some simple fixture.

Back Again Have made the next part the Reverse Shraft Bracket. Once again simple fixture to hold the casting after machining thickness and drilling some holes then into the fixture to machine the outside profile I have uploaded a 30 sec video to you tube to give an idea of the process I used...

Hi Everyone I have progressed since my last post. I have made several extra pieces the eccentric straps were completed and fitted to the crankshaft. Next made the eccentric rods and the expansion links and the columns. Assembled to base. More to follow

Hi Alex My 3 jaw is adjustable a Pratt Bernard Grip True my fixture is machined concentric with the OD running true so when I put any work in the 3 jaw I check the OD is true and I know the piece to be bored is perfectly running true. Great for setting jobbing work running perfect I mean within...

Have uploaded 2 short videos machining the eccentric straps

Yes just checked this idea out I will post the videos on YouTube and post the link. Thanks

Now for the eccentric straps. More fixtures. Used the fixture for the eccentrics to bring to thickness then split them and drilled & tapped to hold together. Fixture to turn This is an alignment piece it allows me to get the parting line and the part centred One half positioned...

Continuing my build. I have made the eccentrics they posed some concern on how to tackle I started by holding by the extra material on the casting and put a 3/8 hole first and turned the .500 x 3/16 shoulder Then I made 2 fixtures to mill and turn the offset part. The fixtures were made so...

Thanks for the complement. I try to do things correctly as per the drawings

Hi Again I have progressed slightly. I machined the counterweights and fitted them to the crank. when assembling things I realised 2 of the main bearings had a bit too much clearance about .0035" so I closed them up .005" and reamed them to the correct size. this resulted in having to use .002"...

My 2nd attempt at building a crank was to use some 3/8 dia silver steel it is ground bar. I measured several lengths at my supplier and found some which measured .3748". When producing the webs for the crank I used a 9.5 mm ( .374" ) reamer which gave me an interference fit of about .0003"...

My Crankshaft It has been an interesting journey. I started by purchasing some 1144 steel from the USA. It was recommended by several people on this site. My approach was to put centres in the ends and turn between centres. This did not work out very well. I turned it oversize on all the...

Yesterday I made 4 oil cups for the soleplate ( base) they look OK. Next the crank shaft

Hi Peter There is no crankshaft supplied with this kit it needs to be fabricated totally by me.

Hi sniffipn I do the step in the bearings so if they are ever separated they go back together and keep the same alignment. each bearing is numbered on each half and goes into the same position on the base so they can be removed and replaced each time. They are machined using the fixture shown...

Today I made and finished the main bearings. To get them as accurate and inline as best I could I machined all exterior sizes before I drilled & reamed the main crank holes. I made the keeps to secure the bearings, oil cups tomorrow. I made a small fixture to accurately position the bearings so...