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That looks like the Harold Hall designed basic dividing head. Have a look at H.H's description on Dividing Head, Basic where he suggests reading his book 'Dividing' or 'Milling, A Complete Course' for all the information on it. Dave The Emerald Isle

When suggesting stainless steel, I was thinking of exposed propshafts as used in high speed craft. I can see that mild steel in slower vessels such as cargo vessels with enclosed propshafts would be perfectly adequate as you describe, Gail. Dave The Emerald Isle

Is mild steel the best material for model boat prop shafts? I would have thought stainless steel would be better for its non-rusting properties. With that thought, could it have been 303 that was used previously and now it is 316 that is used. 316 tends to be more difficult to work. I realise...

Just a thought... Some small 'steam' engines use some grooves cut in the piston wall to act as a labyrinth seal. (so does the Robinson hot air engine). Would it be worth trying the same in this engine? Dave The Emerald Isle

Ah, yes. Chris Heapy's site. Recommended reading for all tyro machinists. http://web.archive.org/web/20050921130713/http://easyweb.easynet.co.uk/~chrish/homepage.htm Dave The Emerald Isle

You might like to try the National Railway Museum, York as a first port of call. Email [email protected]. Home page Home | National Railway Museum Dave The Emerald Isle

I can't really envisage the size of the bellows but one source if they are the correct size is replacement bellows for Seig type milling machines. Dave The Emerald Isle

I admire your ingenuity, Jim. Dave The Emerald Isle

Timo Provided the diameter of the round is below the top of the vice, the holding is perfectly safe. The way I attach the table to the Tee slot is always secure. Everything with it is simple! Dave The Emerald Isle

This is my home made version of a tilting table for small jobs: Dave The Emerald Isle

The 'traditional' way to secure a piston to its rod in model engines was to thread the piston only half way and the other half would be plain, the same diameter as the piston rod. Hold the piston in the drill chuck and the rod in the tailstock chuck and screw both together. The plain part of...

Don't know anything about electronics, but could you fit a heat sink? Dave The Emerald Isle

And the legs get longer as a result! Dave The Emerald Isle

If you want straight spokes, Myers Model Engine Castings - Myers Engine Works although not mentioned on their website. Or you could try Martin Model. He has a good range Flywheel Castings Dave The Emerald Isle

Does your chuck look anything like this one: See the set screw on the knurled ring? Have you tried slacking this and moving the knurled ring away from the jaws? Even with the screw slacked off, the ring will be tight. Dave The Emerald Isle

There was a comprehensive write up a few years ago for a Stern Wheeler engine and boiler. https://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/threads/a-smaller-steam-engine-for-a-smaller-boat.26139/ Don't know if that will be of any use to you. For a simple engine which could be scaled up, have a look at...

Is the collar that is at the head of the arbor hard up against the body? It can be adjusted by slacking off the set screw and moving away slightly. The set screw just tightens the collar. If that is not the problem, try a few drops of thin oil that run down between the jaws and body. Manually...

Not just an IC engine from store part bits, but other bits and pieces. Unfortunately, it's in German! Dave The Emerald Isle

I oil black most of my small home made lathe/milling machine tools and have never had a problem with the blacking coming off during normal use, but it does eventually wear off. I think the secret is to ensure that the parts are completely oil/grease free before blacking. If you like the finish...

Good job on your latest project. Now you can have a go at a twin cylinder version! http://homemetalshopclub.org/projects/scotchx2/scotchx2.html Drawings and instructions provided in the link. Dave The Emerald Isle