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I ditto what Terry has stated. You'll probably strip the bolts before you get the head fastened down. You'll want the head to fasten down until it touches the cylinder to get heat transfer. 10% of the material diameter (.07 x .1 = .007) squish would be plenty for a seal and even that much for a...

Try starting fluid with no liquid fuel. That will eliminate issues with the engine possibly flooding or starving. Also If the plug fires properly (across the gap) when it's out of the cylinder, put the plug in the cylinder and put a spark gap in line with the plug wire. If you get a spark at...

Or conversely (I think). The microswitch could be used in series with the signal line from the hall sensor. As long as the microswitch closes (and passes the signal to the ignition system) some time in advance of when it's needed and opens some time after when the signal is not wanted - Job...

I understand the typical waste spark system. I guess my question now would be who cares if it has a wasted spark? Wasted spark is in fact used on many engines these days. All those with say six cylinders and only three coils are waste spark engines. They don't have any issues with back firing. I...

What's a "back end spark"

Don't forget valve lash figures into your VALVE timing. A lot of lash will make your VALVE timing later.

Andrew: The vent hole in the tank only needs to be as big as required for air to replace the amount of fuel being burned - which is next to nothing. A 1/16 hole would be overkill. If the carb has a way to control the air intake volume - like a choke or a variable barrel type throttle opening -...

Andrew: I sent an email to Mike Rehmus of Model Engine Builder Magazine (where you got the plans) asking him to chime in here with his experience on what has been working for others. I'm sure he has reports of lots of them working down his way in California. I also gave him a link to your...

If you thread the insert, the JB weld is just a permanent thread sealant. You don't even see it when it's done. Except for a very fine ring the diameter of the insert. Same for loctite.

I guess you've rejected the suggestions of making an insert (threaded or not) and JB weld (or loctited) in place?? Threaded and JB weleded worked for me on a much more detailed head that I definitely did not want to re-machine. Just saying. Nothing to lose.

JB weld will be fine on it's own for any temperature your engine will achieve. But, depending on how much room you have you can make the suggested bushing thread into the head instead of just a press fit. That, along with JB weld will be fine. Been there, done that.

The Parcell and Weed in full size is a beast. 90 pounds plus and has 14" flywheels. I re-drew the plans from the original book circa 1902(ish) and built it. You can see it run here: http://www.davesage.ca/parcell%20and%20weed.html It's being held down to a Workmate with a clamp BTW. I believe...

You can easily test the Z microswitch repeatability / accuracy. Write yourself some Gcode or connect to the printer with something that can send Gcode. Send the Z axis home command or move the Z to zero (where it will touch the bed or be a particular distance) and then send it repeatedly up some...

The one I sent can not be the same as any one you already had? Because I gave it that name so it wont be the same as any others I was trying at the time. I gave file name the date and exact time I compiled it so it wouldn't be the same as one I had tried a few minutes before. Yes I compiled this...

I have the Ender3 V2 using the firmware below. I set the bed leveling at 3thou with a feeler gauge but a tight-ish slip of paper works ok too. Multiple go-rounds required. I found the center of my glass plate bed a bit loose but I ignore it without issue. For PLA I set the extruder temp at 200...

Very nice work. I built one of those many years ago. Question: Have you ever researched the Fairbanks engines and actually found evidence of the original full sized 1A? I've seen lots of literature and come across a few others but not the 1A. I've concluded that this model was a fabrication. I'd...

Your almost there. I think I've corrected at least three major errors in your circuits. For anyone else that has been following along my advice would be Caveat emptor . I'll stop commenting on your circuits now.

No. Actually you are wrong. Look at the transistor again. You have 12v on the emitter and with the points closed you have ground on the base (through the points). With nothing limiting the current through the B/E junction the transistor will fry. It's the same as putting a diode right across the...

The LED is backward. It's never going to light. But, if you turn it around the transistor will always be on. You need some current limiting for the base of the transistor. The Hall sensor and the transistor likely won't survive since it is trying to short out the supply through the transistor...

Ray: FWIW I had a look at the specific transistor you are using. I didn't realize that the MOSFET you are using is an N-channel enhanced device. 3N06L22 . Since you are using it as a high side driver (not recommended) it will never be properly turned on. The gate will need to go at least 1.7...