Search results

Terry: PM me if you want a module.

You can buy these, but if you know someone with a 3D printer you can make them. I made a few of various heights. For 4 or 3 jaws. The magnets hold it in place. No need to remove it when you start the lathe. It can't go anywhere. It doesn't have to be that fancy either. Just a star shape. It...

I guess the bottom line is you need to design the engine (crank and cam) to suit what is possible / required for the ignition you want to use. Turn it over in your CAD program and watch the timing of the whole assembly and make a plan..

Thanks. I'll look it up.

Can you recommend one of your favourite Wilbur Smith books?

How high of an rpm does it cut out at? I assume drill cranking speed because you never said you got it to run. So maybe 3000 rpm crank?? In any case: Do a bit of measurement to determine how many degrees of cam rotation the trembler is active. At the rpm in question how long (in time) is the...

Contact Roy he makes a version of your system that is multi-spark. I believe it uses the same sensor arrangement except the sparks start when the hall sensor is covered by the magnet and stop when it is cleared. A small adjustment in the timing is required to get the sparks starting at TDC or...

Good to hear. I've been around the block many times. Had you checked it with an ohm meter as I suggested you would have detected that open HV lead connection. Hopefully the HV coil is not damaged. Because when the spark has nowhere to go it can jump inside the coil itself damaging the coil. This...

Of course Roy will comment But You might wonder why it chooses to jump so far INSIDE the module when it only has to jump the small gap of the spark plug. Check your connections to the spark plug. With an ohmmeter. The HV cable or the black return likely has a bad connection.

Put a short ground wire from the spark plug body directly back to the battery pack negative (in addition to the one you already have to the plug body).

The proper end of the magnet can be confusing. The end of the magnet that attracts the north pointer of a compass is the end to use. (the confusing part is that, that is the south pole of the magnet). Also the active face of the hall sensor is usually the one with the part number on it (at...

The groove width IS somewhat important. If the O-ring is not limited in movement it can roll and twist up in the groove. I would think the width should be the same as the cross section of the O-ring to just contain it. If the groove is too narrow then it can compress the O-ring and make it bulge...

Typically the magnet is embedded in (or otherwise fixed to) the moving item and the sensor is mounted on an adjustable bracket on the engine block to adjust the timing.

Thanks. I'll write that down..

Brian: May I ask what your formula is for the dimension of a Viton O-ring groove. Thanks

Thanks Dave.

The Person Steve mentioned in post 255 is Dave Bowes. His engine is called EVIC and has had various iterations. A pretty impressive project. He has electronically controlled solenoid valves and practically everything else. The control circuitry has SEVERAL PIC processors. He has become the...

I'm glad the ignition circuit is working out for you. IMHO if you are building a multi-cyinder model engine it will be dwarfed by the circuitry and coils. That said I know of someone using 8 coils and 8 ignition circuits all hiding in the base box of the engine. A distributor would probably be...

Unfortunately no. I made these particular ones with Macor because Albert Hutton appears to have made his from some sort of ceramic-like material. I wanted to make them true to his design. The Macor was crazy expensive so I wouldn't use it again. Nice stuff though. I have Corian but as others...

If you're looking for a suggestion for testing your plug(s): I made an adapter to put them in my lawnmower. Gives them a good workout. Probably more than most models would give them. The ones I made were a really odd size. .401dia 40tpi Engine is here http://www.davesage.ca/olympus.html look for...