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And what is the correct go/no-go gauge, if the drawing specifies "82 degree countersink, .129 deep" :-) I don't think we're that far apart on this, however, in any drawing more complicated than a single line, clearly conveying the design intent _requires_ leaving some dimensions for the...

Not to be entirely contrary, but, there is a huge difference between instructions, and a design specification. What you are asking for are instructions. There's nothing wrong with instructions, but, that's not typically the designer's, or draftsman's job. A good designer or draftsman may...

Greetings Mike, I missed that you'd gotten back online. Hope you're doing well, and I'd love to hear what the eventual resolution of this is!

Ok, I'll soften my "completely useless" assessment. I hadn't thought of touching off on the diameter of the hole with a centered countersink, and then plunging the additional 0.0627. That certainly gets you where you need to be as well. If I were dimensioning a drawing imagining that the...

This is mildly an aside, but - you gentlemen do realize that the reason there's an argument going on here, is because that .0627 dimension should never have been provided on a drawing? There was a recent argument either here, or on PracticalMachinst (can't remember which) where a large portion...

You seem to have quite the mystery - especially if you're saying that the garage GFIs pop when you're running it on the non-GFI from the house! Fingers crossed that replacing the switch solves the problem, but even if it doesn't, I'm sure this can be diagnosed and fixed. Invisible gremlins...

I guess that sounds like you're in the unlucky 5%. So many people chase equipment problems on GFI circuits when the real problem is the GFI detector/circuit-breaker itself. The fact that you blew the breaker when plugged in to the house is, interesting... GFIs don't sense overcurrent. Your...

Anything less than Megaohms is suspect, and it needs to be measured at operating voltage or higher to be useful for qualifying the motor insulation. Typical ohmmeters/multimeters are inadequate to the task. The job requires a device that is colloquially known as a "Megger" (though like...

Delighted to hear it - all's well that ends well! So - does it work, and did they tell you what they needed to repair?

Gah - "Awake" would not be me! Insufficient caffeine this morning - that's got to be it...

Now I'm confused - what GFI is popping? And was the lathe previously working, plugged in in the same place? amended : never mind, I can't read

Has this motor ever worked on this outlet with the GFI? If not, there's a reasonable chance you're chasing a ghost. Non-resistive loads can fool GFCI breakers and cause nuisance trips.

Nope, right tables refuse to work with tools that went wrong.

Correction - I meant to say 1.5 feet wider on both sides, than the lathe base...

If you have physical limitations that cause you to be one of the significant random variables in the process, then you gotta do what you gotta do to protect you. With a bit of care, you can make the risk to the equipment pretty much nil, but breaking you is not an option. I will say, the more...

2300 lbs is entirely doable for DIY. Get yourself a pallet jack - you'll soon find it's your best friend. Jack the lathe up 6 inches, and lag it to a couple 6x6 timbers running cross-wise, say 1.5 feet wider than the lathe bed, more if you can afford the width. Pallet jack under the balance...

Make dolly much, much wider, consider non-pneumatic tires: 400+ lbs on top of that, with pneumatic tires that will be squishy with a load, and you're just begging for a tip-over. This is not hypothetical. Consider instead using your engine-hoist to lower it down to a floor-level dolly, roll...

If you want to print PLA as your model material, or can't reliably print ABS due to lack of a heated enclosure, PVA is certainly one of the better options. I've found it much harder to get fine detail in the support structure with PVA than with PLA though. Still, any dissolvable support...

Yup, PLA. PLA dissolves in (reasonably) strong base solutions. The support-cleaning solution we use (I'm afraid I've forgotten the exact molarity - we worked it out once, it's nasty, but not /that/ nasty) is something like 100g NaOH per gallon, plus a healthy dose of what's basically laundry...

I have not used them for typical cutoff purposes (well, not more than once), as they're stupendously loud and "rough" feeling compared to normal cutoff disks. But, they maintain diameter "forever", which I find really useful for hand-shaping HSS. For example, I hand-carved a set of HSS square...