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How do you quote someone and and put it in your reply? I tried clicking on the persons quote, and wrote in the box on the bottom, and nothing shows up when I post

I've done some other of Jerry Howell's engines. Beamer stirling, Bill 1906, and Powerhouse. I've spent much more time working on the v4 then the others and want to make sure I get everything right instead of dealing the the disappointment of a non-starting engine. I get much more enjoyment out...

Tried using toothpaste, but I think I'm gonna try this: McMaster-Carr and then use toothpaste if needed. When using toothpaste, how often do you do wipe off/clean from valve and put new toothpaste on it? After a couple minutes of lapping?

1 down, 7 to go...

so if I understand correctly your saying rub soap on the head? Do I focus heat on the head around the cage, on cage, or both?

I made this to press it out, pin will keep things centered, and the ID slips over top of valve cage and od is small enough to go through hole in the head I was gonna use the lathe tailstock to press it out

so to get the loctited cages that are in the head now (green loctite), I have a heat gun and a propane torch, which to use to heat it up before I try and press the old cages out? After I get new cages installed, I can perform pressure test by putting air through spark plug hole and listen for...

with valve closed against valve cage, around 5 min.. with valve pulled away from cage around 2.5 min.. The rate at which it leaks seems to be more at the start (more vacuum), and slows down as it goes towards normal air pressure

Would this stuff be good to use for lapping and is 320 grit ok?

I think testing it with the mighty-vac this way won't work, because if I pull the valve away from the cage, it still very slowly loses vacuum, because the small hole the valve slides in provides somewhat of a seal.

I got the valve cages made, the ends are at 90 degrees.. I then put a valve in a cage, held the end of the valve in a collet, then by hand held the cage and spun it against the valve back and forth a few times, lifted cage away from valve, rotated, then repeated a few times. I didn't put any...

I'm going to make my valve cages over again. The turned parts are made from the bar on right, which I got from speedy metals, it says its SAE 660 Bearing bronze on receipt. The round stock on the left is from from McMaster-Carr. I had searched for phosphor bronze on their website and it...

Still working on putting together howell v4.. Valve cages are phosphor bronze, valves are stainless steel. Made valves and seat cutter without changing compound rest angle so they both angles should match. I have a few questions: 1) What compound should I use for lapping? I have really fine...

thanks for all the replies Brian, if I under stand you correctly, top ring would be at 12, 2nd ring at 4, and last ring at 8 o'clock

I'm working on assembling my howell v4 and was wondering what orientation relative to each other should the 3 rings gaps be when installing the piston in the cylinder?

I found this on McMaster-Carr McMaster-Carr It says it can be used on iron and is for removing lapping compounds. Obviously I would be doing this outside just to be safe.

How long should I keep the parts in the ultrasonic cleaner? I have an extra cylinder liner I can use to test on

so I don't have to worry about any rust issues if I use hot soapy water (and acetone scrubbing like you mentioned?)

My cylinder liners are cast iron (Howell V4), and I lapped them with diamond paste. I have a ultrasonic cleaner, but I'm not sure what liquid/solvent I put in the tank.

I think your right. I put one in sleeve and on mandrel, and left it for awhile.. Gap is like it should be, didn't change... Could I heat treat and set gap again after turning to correct diameter? If I had enough cast iron stock, I'd just make new ones and turn to exact size then heat treat.