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Hi FC4, One day to complete is not very long to start building engines and propellers, if the design brief allows it why not just use a direct discharge of the gas through a varible nozzle or control valve if need be. If you go down this route, allow for the loss of the gas weight to control...

Hi, Very late with my input and all the previous advice is sound, but you have not indicated your budget. As an indication put away at least as much money for the accessories as you have for the mill and then add some extra particularly if you want to have a 3 axis DRO. the only other point I...

Hi, If that is all the options open to you, then the 40 will give you 9 degrees per full turn, so if you designed your micrometer collar with 90 divisions then every division will be 0.1 of a degree, certainly workable but not standard, then you have to think about dividing plates and how...

Hi Ned, You have my sympathy, I gave up the idea of building any steam engine because of the same reasons that you have mentioned. My research also confirmed how tricky it was to build a safe working boiler large enough to run an engine economiclly. I think that your engine would probaly need...

Hi Ali, If engine building is your cup of tea and you are looking for a small lathe because of the foot print or space , I would advise against these little toys. Even if by a miracle the lathe happens to have some accuracy it is just too flimsy and small to do any usfull work. Sieg's own C1...

I have 2 of these drivers, a 3 axis that I have used for my home made X1 cnc and a 4 axis that I use for my Taig cnc mill, as Tin mentioned, these are budget low end kits that are restricted to a max of 24V, remember this if you don't want to fry it. I set the current at 75% and microstepping to...

Hi, It is probably a combination of too fast an rpm, too slow a feed and the wrong tool that has caused the work hardeneing effect. I suggest you experiment on some defunct stock untill you get the parameters right, is the steel hot rolled or cold rolled? A.G

Hi, I have one these Old ML7 lathes. I will put it very straight to you and you make the decision. If the Myford is going to be your only lathe then forget it. The parent company went out of buisness July two years ago , someone bought the rights to the Myford brand in the UK and some of the...

Hi Goldstar, The size of the hole ,15.85 mm , was incidental as it was the the diameter of the pyrex test tube that arrived from a vendor on ebay, I bought a parcel of 10 of them and evryone is different from each other, therefore I needed to bore it to the exact size of the tube. If I break...

HI , I have actually done that this afternoon, prior to that I dressed the tip as best as I could and reduced the length of the shank to just enough to fit in the small holder to reduce the flex and chatter. I did bore the hole to exactly 15.85 mm that I wanted and the finish as not bad with...

Hi FC4, I think the engine below is the ticket, you might have to tinker with the equeation from TIN to get your calculations right. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jc7LWZQ_ZXM Good luck,, A.G

Hi, Just to add a further point to my OP, I am not quite sure if the geometry-design of a boring bar differs from a lathe where the tool is rigidly held but only moves along a single axis to a boring head on a mill where the work is stationary and the boring head and tool rotate and plunge at...

Hi Ramon, I would only add that for a chucking reamer to work perfectly, in addition to having a first class chuck, the tail stock and chuck setup ( mounted ) must be in perfect alignment with the head stock or as close to perfect as possible. If the drilling operation has been carried out...

Hi to all, This is totally irelevant to the original OP, but I have an X1 with extended table, a cnc enabled Taig, a Sherline 5400 ~ 2000 and if I had the money right now I'd go with this one below, manufactured between 1950~1960 in about the same place as the now defunct Myfords in Nottingham...

Hi Antman, I have got a new set of these drills that you mentioned, have not had a chance to try them yet, the split point is supposed to help with centering and drilling pressure. The last time I used my cobalt split points there were fine with the exception of brass, it just grabs the brass...

Hi Chris, To find the dead center of the piston is not difficult but a bit fiddly and time consuming in your set up. I for one would try to machine the piston on the chuck and then bore it using a very small boring bar to size, you can then reverse it in the chuck and part it to length as a...

Hi, I am with you there, all my training as an ex student of engineering tellls me that this negative energy is not feasible to either muster or utilise. Theoretical physics will have you believe that impossible things could happen and the next decade someone else comes along and says that no...

Hi Gus, I think it might be prudent for now to slow the rate machine tool purchas down a bit. You being in Malysia, must have access to some fine tooling at very reasonable cost compared to what we pay for in the UK. I noticed that you had the milling course book from Harold Hall, in there he...

Hi Tin, Talking of Sherline, I noticed that Sieg have introduced some new item for their C0 Micro lathes, the adjustable tail stock is very interesting and I wish that Sherline would bring out a similar item as the none adjustable tail stock is very limiting, Sieg have also introduced a...