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Bushing installed: My 1st attempt (ever) at lapping. Turned a broom stick into an end-lap (nice fit at the end and smaller in the middle so I could run the cyl all the way past). Added a bit of valve grinding compound and had at it. Was looking more for a polish and smoothing than trying to...

On to the Mill. My z-axis DRO sure comes in handy. (I have scales for the x and y too but have been too lazy to install them): Flame flat and port. The flat was easy (or so I thought) . I don't have any metric end mills. The smallest center-cutter I have is 3/16". So I drilled 3 4mm holes then...

Good tip. Thanks for that. I'll use it next time ;D For now I guess I'll turn up a lapping bar and go at it with some paste. And then lap a bit more with the piston and valve once they're made.

Not sure what a bore test bar is. Did you have something previously turned the right diameter that you used? I was measuring with something like these: I had searched for lapping tips earlier and found the wood dowel and paste, flap disks, or brake-cylinder hones. I don't have an adjustable...

All my tool holders have a very tiny "slot" where the pistons ride that is deeper than the bottom of the dovetails (I think this is a common way of making dovetails). When I made my clones of the A2Z holders, I copied this detail to make sure they all mounted the same way. You can just barely...

Bored the cylinder this evening. No boring boring pics :) Parted off: Something to catch it when it's cut loose: Flipped and faced off to final length. I must've made 10 spring passes when boring it out. Ended up about 2-thou oversize--no biggie but I was trying to hit it dead-on. My hole...

Mind sharing how so? Binding as it breaks through each fin and wants to wobble off center a bit maybe? I'll use a freshly sharpened bit.

Here's where mine locks up with a turning tool mounted. With a boring tool mounted the handle points more towards the operator. If both pistons protrude too far the problem could be: 1) The slot at the bottom of the the tool holder dovetails is not deep enough. Is the handle position the...

The Microlux lathe is OK--typical of all the other SIEG 7x machines. I got it because of the extra-length, cam-lock tailstock, and the tru-inch dials. Not having to clean all the goop off was a bonus. It still needs tweaking just like the other 7x machines. I have the Microlux mill to go along...

Time to start on the Jan Ridder's Flame Eater. This will be a slow build for me as I only get a few hours to work now and then. 2nd engine, first time working with cast iron and doing any deep boring, etc... Should be a fun learning experience. My machines are in "inches" so I'm converting from...

Used like a wiggler--except you don't have to take remove the current tool to use it. You take that "blob of sticky stuff", along with it's attached pin, and stick it on the end of the tool (could be a drill, end-mill, whatever). Spin up the mill and center the pin just like you would a wiggler...

Keep an eye on your nuts.

Got a Criterion Mod 1.5 head the other day. Has a 1/2" straight shank and I need an MT3 taper as well. I tried chucking it up but the shank just spun in the chuck. Tried it in a small vise with some soft jaws and it still spun. I drilled a 1/2" hole in a bit of aluminum rod then split it...

Hmmmm, they do have a reddish tint to them--very obvious when I got them home and compared them to some brass I had. Hopefully they are more brass/bronze than just copper.

At the scrapyard I grabbed up a few 1/8 to 1" round copper rods anywhere from 6 to 12" long--at the time I thought they were brass (newb mistake). Copper any good for anything other than plumbing fittings? I know they're machineable because some of them have obvious signs of being turned on a...

Not boring bars but lathe tools in general. Lots of good info on relief and rake, etc... Watch his other vids too. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hrDr4rYLiAk

One of my first projects too: Parts: Assembled: That ProjectsInMetal design looks really nice--especially for tap holding. And I like the tailstock flag as well. More stuff for the projects to-do list.

I like the set-screw + plug idea too. Could also run down to the train shop and buy another taper tap and grind off most of the taper.

That engine RAWKS! Inspiration to get started on one of my own. Good job! :bow:

I cobbled a pair of rests together similar to the Veritas rest. No plans--it was all trial-and-error. One thing I'll pass on--make the "table" out of steel. I made mine out of aluminum and they get worn quickly and are not as "slick" as steel. I'm going to remake mine one of these days.