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I Agree. New bearings would be best.

If they are 6007 deep groove then they are not adjustable. The nut you see is to retain the bearing on the quill. Sounds like they need replacing. A good option would be 6007-2RS. These would be prepacked and maintenance free. Get a good quality set.

They should be taper roller bearings so check for adjusting nuts on top of the spindle. There were a few generic models out for that type including Chester Champion and probably Grizly too if you check for manuals.

Well that's one connundrum resolved. The modelling work is great but the engine is fake. It's an electric motor. 1924 Ford Model T Roadster Pick-up

I'd love to know how the low speed tickover is achieved on this masterpiece. Starts around 1min 50 https://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/threads/wow.31776/#post-331605

Reposted. seems the link doen't work

The small offset gives a smoother travel during the power stroke and reduced friction. I have seen it compared to dropping a weight on a piece of string straight down to dropping it in a slight arc. The shock at the end is much less when dropped in an arc. However I cannot see this making much...

It's all a bit hit and miss if you'll excuse the pun. Increasing the stroke will increase the compression ratio, potentially increasing speed, unless you compensate at the head or by moving the centre of the crank back, plus there is a possibility to change the length of the conrod, at the same...

Surely doesn't need forced air for a diesel to work. Air is drawn in through the inlet valve on the induction stroke simply by the downward movement of the piston causing the vacuum.

The correct way to fit the valve seat is to put the side with the annular groove into the body first. The side with the small radius in the bore is the actual seat for the needle.

I use one on my Warco 240 converted to 2.2Kw 3ph.

I bored out the head casting to remove the D shape, most of the flange, and flatten the inner face, I then made an insert with a flange to fill that space. The piston side of the insert is also spiggoted to reduce the space in the bore. There is a central exhaust port 6mm drill to just past the...

Hi Ken. I was wondering what compression ratio you were expecting. The 1/3 model from Tolsten Shure has a very low 2:1 compression and runs badly usually firing every other ignition stroke. To get it to run reasonably well I increased it nearer to 4:1. I filled in the D comletely and then...

https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/matador-60-60-twin-plan-rc1539/

There is some confusion here. The saddle doesn't have gibs. It runs on the bedway. Moot point if you are happy with your lathe now.

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I have not used pneumatic cylinders with steam but have used them on hot processes and one thing is for certain you will need at least to change all the seals to Viton.

On the contrary. Printer rollers are ground to very high tolerances and they are invariably around 40-50 shore hardness. O rings are typically 70 shore hardness, so much harder. I don't disagree that grinding an o ring is impractical and is technically difficult but grinding polymers in no way...

So without going into the why's and wherefore's. In my experience grinding rubber is the only way to change its size easily. It would need to be put on a mandrel without distortion / rolling and gripped on the sides. You might be very lucky but it's not going to be easy.

Superb. I love the paint job. The aging looks quite real,