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Resurfacing on the lathe doesn't necessarily mean flat. I always flatten by lapping after machining and check the mating faces with micrometer blue. I then simply use an oil soaked paper gasket. Never had one leak yet.

0.5/0.6mm should be fine. Would love to know what the coil is too if anyone recognizes it.

Found this on youtube for you. It gives a good description of how the SU works. Well worth watching. Start at 2.30 to see the How it works.

It still seems like fuel air mixture is a problem for you(too lean). Assuming you have made sure the dashpot and choke slide are working smoothly then you could try needles with different profiles.(You could buy these for the original SU's.) First. Try lifting the piston up and down with no...

Try a thinner oil in the dashpot and make sure the piston in the dashpot is not sticking. Also can you change the spring to a weaker one.

You could try different needles. Thinner at the bottom half. You could buy different needles in my day. Different profiles for higher performance or economy

Where is the fuel tank? If it's the bit to the right of the float chamber that looks too small to allow the float chamber to replenish much as the fuel is used. If not it must have a pump somewhere to fill the float chamber from a tank below.

All depending on how this carb has been made. The SU carb has an idle jet which as it suggests allows enough fuel for idling. This is taken over by the main jet when the piston and needle are raised simoultaneuosly. As the piston is raised it also raises the needle which is tapered allowing more...

I take your point. I Have just got back to this project after a long break and can't remember if I first noticed it on the video. I think I did! I guess I need to go back and check at various rev ranges. I will set everything up more firmly and retry.

I have been looking into that but can't see a way to get it too look the part and be functional.

I haven't tried an alternative but the reed switch should be OK at that low frequency. I have had it up to 2500 RPM but at the higher speeds it does not look like it is missing as in the lower speed. This vid is at 2500 RPM and does not look like it is missing when played at 1/4 speed

You're right. I should have said it's based on this by Mr Ridders. Only difference is a newer version with smaller components.

I have been working on trying to make a false magneto for hit and miss engines. About 1/4 scale(depending on engine.) The case is designed to hold the coil, the electronics, a suitable capacitor, and the battery either 1.5V AA or 3.5V 14250. I have the first set of cases printed and...

Yes but definitely not enough for you to worry about. Research for bulk modulus of diesel.

I also had a similar job progression as you did and I can empathise. When I was on the tools back in the day. The company I worked for had a slow laborious process of hand wrapping a thin film of uncured rubber around a short brass tube. The film was cut from a roll and separated from a backing...

Thats true but it just depends on how far you are prepared to go to get something fit for purpose. I started out using a piece of thick glass until I broke it. I found some cheap granite tiles so I bought two. It took hours to get them to a stage where I was happy with them. I was not looking...

I use a granite tile too. In fact I have two which I lapped together to make sure they were good.

If it helps you can buy bearings here Pleuellager - Standard The undersize are more expensive but the standard are not unreasonably priced. If you are making your own they are lead bronze on a steel shell.

Hi Dave. I didn't make it yet. Hobbies have been on a back burner because I have been rebuilding part of the house.(out of necessity) What little time I have had is trying to make a 1/4 scale 'electronic' magneto. The printed body containing the circuit, coil, battery and reed switch trigger...

Welcome Zdenek. Those are some very nice engines. Do you make your own castings?