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Exhaust valve set up and timed. The flange that can be seen on the front of the head is false. The two bolts secure the liner to the water jacket. They also assist in assembly allowing trapped air between the jacket and the liner to escape.

Printing being so time consuming and what seems to me expensive, would it not be worth printing reusable moulds with just enough internal support and, when they are cold, just filling them with resin.

That's a neat solution. There must be a bit of difference in mine at that end because on mine, the screw for the bearing cap is not in line with the pin.(Although it could have been if I had designed it that way.) For mine I drilled the sideplate 4mm and then opened the hole to 8mm leaving a 3...

The exhaust valve block was fabricated from brass parts silver soldered.

When I made the timing gear shaft I turned the location end 0.5mm eccentric so that when fitting, it allows me to adjust the backlash of the gears before locking it into place.The eccentrics were fairly straightforward. The various holes in the gear are so that I could adjust the timing by half...

Thanks Graham I may well do that. I am struggling a bit with the geometry of the trigger assembly. I have made some parts but whether it will work correctly remains to be proven only when the engine runs. I think this is where problems of scale rear their ugly heads. Inertia and friction don't...

Thanks Jason I did consider the casting set but it was a bit out of proportion. The piston size was similar but the stroke and the overall length of the base was a bit shorter. I was a bit apprehensive about the built up base but I think it worked out OK in the end. The biggest problem I faced...

Thanks. I had thought about casting but ruled that out on cost and safety grounds. I could't justify buying all the kit for a one off. I was inspired to do the fabrication by seeing some of the work done by JasonB

So Far.

The crank is five piece using loctite and taper pins.

The cylinder and liner were next. The liner has a blind bore. Water Jacket is part recess in the jacket and part undercut on the liner. The bore is 34mm.

The next step was the logo for the base. I had intended to buy a plate to insert but after being let down by the supplier decided to make my own. I soldered brass letters onto a tinplate backing. These were slightly bigger than I wanted but not too bad. They were then set into the sides of the...

I am far enough along with the Gardner to start the build log. I have a lot done but there is still a long way to go before it is a running engine. I have used a bit of licence with some parts as I only have the lathe to work with. I have the option of using one or two flywheels. I will make the...

Wow. I though materials here were expensive. I recently bought maleable cast bar @ 3.3CAD per Kg

I just finished the drip feed oiler for my Gardner. Just a bit of spit and polish to finish it. I like the result and the cost was minimal. The bowl is made from an acrylic test tube and the sight glass from 5mm bore acrylic tube. The test tubes and the straight tube are available in various...

Just a little update before disassembling for finishing and painting. Waiting for nameplates so it's back to the magneto for a while.

As equipment becomes cheaper then so much in the future will be CNC based modelling and metal printed/sintered parts. Or even just kits and ready made engines for many. When I see some of the CNC work on here and other sites I am often envious of the level of detail that's achievable but on...

I'm not convinced by the video. I imagine that when he restarted there was a fair bit of original fuel in the pipework and even some in the bottom of the tank despite the ''bleeding''. That takes nothing away from his fine engines even if they are normally running on higher grade fuel.

I love the idea of posting your build showing the finished parts rather than the step by step manufacture of each part. Of course followed by the assembly and finally a video of the running engine. For me the only interest in seeing the manufacture of every part is if some 'unusual' set up is...

Lovely work. My only concern/question is regards the gap in the big end shells. I have never seen or made shells which are not complete halves which is more difficult and wasteful. Have you had success before with just splitting rounds and leaving the gap?