Longboy

I answered an add on Craigslist for something and the seller was in his ninety's and a model engine builder. I own a prototype machine...

Stirling engine....yer not making models outta dining utensils.

You should test fit your piston after the boring. If it slides and turns uniformly in the bore full stroke....leave it at that.

Have you considered the cylinder liner material that has no need for honing, lapping or boring? There for no tooling for these...

The length of the cylinder is like two inches long. You are having an inordinate concern for a tapered bore here and your gauge readings...

Not only can you claim museum qualities in your builds but bringing an obscure design to life is an exception to standard I/C engines...

I may just have a 9mm drill. Thanks.

Thanks. Have the tap; but need the S drill.

The final picture of the engine with it's black cap on. Thanks to everyone that followed along and commented. Ray

You'll need a10MMx1.0 tap. S-drill bit for the CM6.

......do you have plans for this engine? I'm gonna show them this. Tell them this page is FREE!

Your fixed costs are a one time deal for ignition support. Thats would be your coil and battery, battery holder, wireing / connector...

Hi Danuzzo. To me the simplest and cheapest way is points and don’t get hung up on the brand. I see no reason that a set of lawn mower...

It may not being the spirit of an engine building forum but I have often bought gears on eBay. Usually I only need one and it is cheaper...