Felgiebel 16,6

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rweber said:
I never used Borax, but the flux I used from Felder was quite well removable with a 15% sulfuric acid. Heated up to about 30-40°C. Take care, use gloves and glasses!
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In addition to using a steel brush, I thought of dissolving borax. For example, I would cook the cylinder in an old pot for an hour so that the water was just before boiling. This would allow the borax to loosen. I'm afraid to use acid so that the cylinder does not start to rust after use.
 
i use dremel with little wire brush sometimes, and sometimes i use dremel wtih what looks like scotchbrite pad on the end. both work well for me
 
werowance said:
i use dremel with little wire brush sometimes, and sometimes i use dremel wtih what looks like scotchbrite pad on the end. both work well for me
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This is quite similar to my clamping of a special steel brush in a drill. Probably clean the cylinder with a steel brush. Maybe it won't even scratch because it's made of very good material, like a carburetor and a flange. Only the transfer channel is of ordinary mild steel.
 
I used a brass brush to roughly clean the cylinder from borax, then boiled the cylinder for a while in the water, dissolving the remaining borax and cleaning it manually with a toothbrush.

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After the borax was cleaned, I grinded the overflowed silver with the help of a straight grinder "parkside" and home made abrasive handles of P240, P500 and P800 to create a smooth transition.

I also focused on the cut of the cylinder. Since I have the opportunity, I borrowed reamers (from a diameter of 25.5 to 27.5 mm) and I passed through the cylinder. The reamers have a tolerance of H8 and in reality the cylinder now has an average deviation of 0 to + 0.1mm. For the cut I bought a honing head, which I increase the drilling to 27, 8 mm.

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With the honing head, I also bought a NGK CM-6 candle. to make the cylinder head.
 

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Grinding with honing head. The deviation on the inside diameter of the cylinder is 0.02 mm. (0.000787401575 inches)
Interestingly, the honing head reduced the internal diameter of the cylinder.

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Production of cylinder head.

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Finished but not yet stuck head.

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The Christmas holidays are over and we can continue to build Felgiebel. I had a 3D model of the crankcase printed out and now I will be making molds.

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Now I put the crankcase aside and I'm currently working on the crankshaft.
Previously, I made a propeller carrier and a puller for the carrier. The gripper has an internal taper hole with a 1:50 pitch.

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F-DS said:
Do you harden crankshafts into similar engines?
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No necessary to harden the crankshaft if you are using the high tensile steel.

If hardening the crankshaft, there is the risk to bend the crankshaft and the surfaces need grinding with tool post grinder or gringing machine for shaft due the diameter is increased after hardening.
 
Thank you, that after hardening will change the dimensions of the body I did not know. At least I have one heavy job lightened.
 
Dobrý den, jaký materiál jste použili pro válec a klikový hřídel. Plánuji postavit 4cc Kratmo. Plán zahrnuje materiály, které již nejsou k dispozici. S pozdravem Matthias
 
Válec i klikový hřídel jsem dělal z oceli Poldi T6W. Měl by to být materiál podobný ČSN 19 083. Lze použít Poldi C45, ČSN 12 051.
 
Díky, musím zjistit, jestli v Německu existuje. Jaký druh zapalování chcete použít? Postavte si elektronickou nebo zapalovací cívku sami?
Zdravím Matthias
 
Plánuji, že si zapalovací cívku vyrobím sám, podle návodu v knize "spalovací motorky pro letadélka." Když se nepovede, tak jí koupím.

Ich plane, die Zündspule selbst gemäß den Anweisungen im Buch "Benzinmotoren für Flugmodele" herzustellen. Wenn es fehlschlägt, werde ich es kaufen.
 
Slyšel jsem, že v České republice by měla být společnost, která prodává zapalovací cívky. Společnost jsem bohužel zatím nenalezl. Hodně štěstí a hodně štěstí.
 
O žádné takové firmě, která by pocházela z ČR jsem nikdy neslyšel, ale je to možné.
Ich habe noch nie von einem bestimmten Unternehmen aus der Tschechischen Republik gehört, aber es ist möglich.
 
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