Recent content by xander janssen

Indeed, otherwise I was not able to hold it with enough clearance for the saw mandrel. Took me a while to get out of that oops situation. Soft solder worked very well. Another option was to first braze the rod to the big end and then hold it by the rod.

Connection rod with bronze bearings and a stainless steel rod silver brazed together. Piston has a replacable crown to experiment with different crowns e.g. material, shape and dimensions.

7075 aluminium piston with commercial cast iron rings. 1st time I use aluminium in stead of cast iron. Lets see how it works.

Since it is now becoming relative (top) heavy and all the hours invested, I took some time to build a temporary stand for the engine. This to avoid damage during build, transport and exhibition at shows. On the base is a photo that I found in a brochure of this engine. Once the engine is...

1st test with the generator running at 330 rpm in the lathe. Only one of the 16 magnets in place and still without back iron to direct the magnetic flux.

Added insulated slip rings. Next will be the stator.

Obsolete coils removed and wires replace to reduce the imbalance and stripped an old servo motor to serve as a faux (imitation) exciter.

Status today. Note, all temporary slit-screws and hex screws will be replaced later by studs and nuts.

@Rustkolector Thanks for the answers. Once I get it running on gasoline, I will look into converting it to propane. I already have all the parts for the demand valve as it can be found on the internet. Only detail I'm lacking is what pressure of propane I should deliver to the demand valve...

The wheel of a hover board might be even better as it already contains the magnets. For the price of the magnets I now need for the ceiling fan, one can also buy a 2nd had or broken hover board.

Carefull reversed engineering (not to damage the thin wires) shows that I'm lucky. The main coil is on the outside and the 2nd phase and coils to reduce speed are all on the inside, so easy to be removed. 2nd though: this is more likely due to design rather than luck, but anyway I'm happy.

All bronze bushings ans clips in place. Almost a pitty that all of this will become invisible in the final engine.

Crankshaft bearings, crankshaft, camshaft (still without cams) and gears are in and running smooth. Again a main hurdle towards a running engine taken.

I will go for this look. Stator and rotor-bearings are attached to the base plate which gives a real "open" look and allows careful alignment/shimming in X, Y, Z and Rx and Ry of the rotor with respect to the engine and the stator with respect to the rotor.

Many thanks for all the answers. Once my replica of the 1937 Industrie Diesel 2VD5 is ready, I will continue with the electric/magnetic parts of my generator. I build this generator predominantly to increase the "fly wheel inertia" to get a low RPM without having to add a too big and...